Climbing

Scarpa’s Vapor series includes a lace-up, Velcro, and slipper—all of which have their strengths on cracks. The Vapor V is our testers’ favorite for thin cracks, offering a supportive yet narrow toe for more penetration and less pain (due to a stiff midsole). The last is slightly asymmetric and slightly downturned, while a thin, synthetic midsole adds edging power. Two Velcro straps cinch the fit while the suede/ Lorica uppers stretch just enough to conform to your foot while maintaining..." go to full review

The Reflex is a flat-lasted Velcro designed for allday wear. Two Velcro straps adjust the fit better than many comparable models due to the high and low placement and the curve in the straps. (Scarpa makes a lace-up version of the Reflex called the Helix, for the same price.) A sturdy, well-made shoe, the Reflex has leather uppers that conform to your foot plus a solid, symmetric footbed that ensures a relaxed feel and will keep your feet happy all day—as they did when our tester wore them..." go to full review

Marketed for all-around performance, the Lynx is a comfy trad shoe with a little sass. The last is slightly asymmetric and ever-so-slightly downturned, which adds an element of performance to an otherwise average shoe. Unlined leather uppers and a padded mesh tongue make it comfortable to wear all day if you size them generously. (A tighter fit will take advantage of the last shape, transforming the Lynx into a shoe that can handle overhangs.) Laces cinch the top of the shoe but don’t extend..." go to full review

The original Flash was Mad Rock’s price-point, all-around shoe. And at $60, it’s a bargain price for a decent kick. Now, there’s also the Flash 2.0, a comfy Velcro designed for more performance and a unique padded heel. A new synthetic/leather upper maintains fit better than the pure leather of the original Flash, and with a flat, slightly asymmetric last and average width, the Flash 2.0 is comfortable for most feet. Mad Rock’s Shock Gel insert in the heel reduces soreness from bouldering..." go to full review

“I was able to stand up tall on the wicked, pocketed feet of Mr. Witty (V6) in the Happies as much as the minuscule foot crystals that litter the Buttermilks,” said a boulderer who took them to Bishop. “I would highly recommend these shoes for a beginner-intermediate climber looking for more response and sensitivity in overhanging terrain.” Where the Kintaro really shines is combining performance and comfort—a huge plus for long sport routes or long, technical trad climbs.go to full review

Over the years, Evolv has made plenty of good climbing shoes, but the Shaman is the company’s first truly world-class shoe. The Shaman, designed by Chris Sharma, edges well and is sensitive enough for secure grabbing on overhangs. It fits most foot sizes and shapes: narrow to wide and low to high volume, and the tight but comfortable feeling increases sensitivity without pain. Testers unanimously consider the Shaman’s 4.2mm Trax rubber to be one of the stickiest on the market, but when brand..." go to full review

The new Boostic (a redesign of the popular Booster) is a top performer at all angles. One tester described the shoe as being the perfect balance between power and delicacy—it’s aggressive but not too downturned. The tensioned shape of the last lets you transmit the force from your whole foot through your toes and onto the rock. Think of the Boostic as a superb edging shoe, but with the shape and generous heel and toe rubber of a steep-climbing slipper. Like most Scarpa shoes, it tends to fit..." go to full review

Five Ten’s latest version of the Team Shoe is the most sensitive shoe in the Gear Guide. The thin outsole (3.5mm Stealth Mystique rubber) and aggressive downturn allow you to grab holds on steep terrain right out of the box. Its narrow toe profile excels on pockets and shines at hooking, thanks to the massive coverage of rubber, including a high rand and coated heel and toe. The rubber is 20 percent thinner than on most rock shoes, and testers noticed: “My right toe blew within three months..." go to full review

The Vapor V’s asymmetric, slightly downturned last, medium-stiff Flexan midsole, and 4mm Vibram XS Grip 2 sole create a comfortable, all-around shoe. The unlined upper is a blend of leather and synthetic (Lorica). The Vapor V has a roomy toe box for wider feet, but two hook-and-loop straps cinch down tight for a narrower fit. Active Rand Technology forces power to the big toe for superior edging performance. Testers would have liked more rubber on top of the toe for hooking and crack..." go to full review

It’s hard to believe, but Scarpa continues to outdo itself with quality, high-end kicks. The lace-up Instinct has a slightly asymmetric, downturned last that maintains its shape for the shoe’s life. The unlined, leather upper conforms to your foot but stretch is minimized with a grid of stitching. A 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip rubber sole and Tenoflex midsole combine to “hold a laser edge,” said one tester. The roomy forefoot accommodates wide feet while the laces ensure a vacuum fit for narrower,..." go to full review