Climbing

Adapted to fit lower-volume feet, and made with a flat, slightly asymmetric last, the Spirit Lady VCR is Red Chili’s first women’s-specific shoe. A lined, leather upper and Impact Zone cushioned heel create an all-around shoe that one tester described as “extremely comfortable.” Testers liked the shoe for bouldering because of the Impact Zone feature. The 4.2mm RX2 rubber proved super sticky, and the three hook-and-loop closures dial the fit with aplomb. But don’t expect exceptional..." go to full review

This year’s Corona VCR has a new, supportive midsole, which improves upon an already popular shoe. The flat, asymmetric last is comfortable, even as it focuses power to the big toe. Lined, synthetic uppers offer little stretch, while two hook-and-loop straps effectively adjust the fit. Testers unanimously praised both the 4.5mm RX2 rubber and the shoe’s ability to edge on dimes. The pointy, low-profile toe – one of the best in the review – easily fits into small pockets and thin cracks. The..." go to full review

The new, low-volume version of Millet’s Hybrid is designed for comfort. It sports a symmetric, flat last, unlined leather upper, padded ankle collar, and padded toe for jamming. Three hook-and-loop closures dial the fit and a 4.5mm 4PointGrip sole rounds out this all-around, all-day shoe. Testers appreciated the “super comfy” fit and bold color scheme, but they agreed on its middle-of-the-road performance. More than one tester commented on the LD Hybrid’s poor sensitivity, despite its..." go to full review

Marketed to take climbers “from the gym to the rocks,” Five Ten has produced an affordable, all-around Velcro shoe. A flat, slightly asymmetric last, medium-stiff midsole, and perforated synthetic uppers with a padded tongue are a recipe for comfort and all-around use. More than one tester commented that the Rogue didn’t tighten evenly. The upper strap is bulky and not as effective as the lower, thinner strap. The Rogue is not as stiff or sensitive as Five Ten’s Anasazi Velcro, but the 3.5mm..." go to full review

These flat-lasted, asymmetric hook-and-loop kicks are no-nonsense, solid all-arounders. A half-midsole adds a hint of rigidity to this otherwise soft, sensitive shoe. A perforated, synthetic upper and nylon lining prevent much stretch, while the two Velcro straps snug the fit. All testers applauded the Defy VTR’s relaxed fit; one called them “super comfy.” From indoor climbing to desert cracks, these babies received high marks in all categories. Evolv’s 4.2mm TRAX XT-5 rubber stuck to..." go to full review

Most slippers can’t edge on a deck of cards, but then there’s Boreal’s latest slipper with a half midsole: the Tribal. While they won’t dime-edge like full-shank klettershoes, these asymmetric, slightly downturned kicks (with 4-4.6mm FS QUATTRO rubber) stick to edgy face climbs as well as the caves. The uppers are mostly leather with a mesh/elastic foot wrap that seals the fit. While the Tribal doesn’t excel at any particular climbing style, most testers said they would buy this shoe because..." go to full review

“The fit is perfect when I first put them on—no extraneous space or volume anywhere, even the heel,” one tester said. She regularly finds too much heel space in most shoes, even though her foot ranks as medium-width, medium-volume, and medium-arch. Our narrow-footed tester was pleased with the Ra, too. They are a good edging shoe, as they performed well on both Rifle and Eldo polish, keeping up with our tester’s favorite super-precision shoe. Comfort level is minimal, but that’s to be..." go to full review

“They’re not perfect at anything, but they perform really well everywhere, which makes them terrific for a fairly high-performance versatile shoe,” our tester said. A semi-stiff sole and precise fit means they edge and smear—plus everything in between—but don’t quite “grab” the rock as much as you might want on the steeps because they’re not super stiff. Sensitivity was solid, even on outside edges when our tester had to deadpoint off a smooth quartzite bump on Wicked Gravity (5.11a) at Lake..." go to full review

Millet’s new high-performance lace-up sports a downturned toe that’s unusually stiff. Testers were surprised by how well that rare combo provided exceptional grip. One tester said that he stood on dime edges with confidence, while on steeper-than-45 terrain he “could grab and hook features almost as well as if I were wearing a slipper.” The rigid forefoot broke in after just a few limestone sport pitches, softening just enough to offer both support and sensitivity for the lifespan of the..." go to full review

Redesigned for 2012, the Pontas II is a versatile shoe that can handle almost any terrain, from ticky-tacky dime edges in Squamish, British Columbia, to steep, sinker buckets in Skaha, B.C. A flat last with slight asymmetry and an aggressive and form-fitting, rubber-coated heel cup make for an easy-to-wear foot platform. A 1.5mm, full-length MX-P midsole adds stiffness that will last the life of the shoe. The Pontas II fits narrow- to average-width feet and can be sized large for all-day..." go to full review