Evolv Shaman

Over the years, Evolv has made plenty of good climbing shoes, but the Shaman is the company’s first truly world-class shoe. The Shaman, designed by Chris Sharma, edges well and is sensitive enough for secure grabbing on overhangs. It fits most foot sizes and shapes: narrow to wide and low to high volume, and the tight but comfortable feeling increases sensitivity without pain. Testers unanimously consider the Shaman’s 4.2mm Trax rubber to be one of the stickiest on the market, but when brand new it feels thick and clunky. (Precision will come once the rubber wears down—or is filed down.) The so-called “knuckle box” atop the big toe keeps it in a position of power, along with the “love bump” indentation under the forefoot, which pushes your toe up into the top of the shoe. “The shoe was incredibly comfortable, and I was able to size way down for extreme precision in pockets and on edges thanks to the roomy toe box,” said one female tester. “Hands down, this was the best shoe I’ve tested out of five different pairs over the past two years.”