Climbing
Boreal’s latest model in its popular Joker series has a flat, symmetric last designed for all-day wear. The leather upper, synthetic mesh lining, and generous padding throughout make this the most comfortable shoe in the review. It sports the same 4.5mm FS-Quattro rubber that’s on Boreal’s high-performance shoes. One tester called these “unusually sensitive” for an all-day model. The toe is semi-stiff and slightly pointed for accuracy on edges and pockets, yet it’s soft enough to grab on..." go to full review
The symmetric, flat-last of this shoe makes it one of the most comfortable shoes on the market today. Its lined leather uppers, generous padding on the tongue and ankle, and EVA heel wedge provide a cushioned fit unmatched by other rock shoes. It’s not a top performer on any terrain, but it handles edges, slabs, and cracks thanks to a semi-stiff midsole, high rubber rand, and the same FS-QUATTRO rubber that’s on all of Boreal’s rock shoes. Available as a lace-up or Velcro.go to full review
Scarpa’s Vapor series includes a lace-up, Velcro, and slipper—all of which have their strengths on cracks. The Vapor V is our testers’ favorite for thin cracks, offering a supportive yet narrow toe for more penetration and less pain (due to a stiff midsole). The last is slightly asymmetric and slightly downturned, while a thin, synthetic midsole adds edging power. Two Velcro straps cinch the fit while the suede/ Lorica uppers stretch just enough to conform to your foot while maintaining..." go to full review
The Reflex is a flat-lasted Velcro designed for allday wear. Two Velcro straps adjust the fit better than many comparable models due to the high and low placement and the curve in the straps. (Scarpa makes a lace-up version of the Reflex called the Helix, for the same price.) A sturdy, well-made shoe, the Reflex has leather uppers that conform to your foot plus a solid, symmetric footbed that ensures a relaxed feel and will keep your feet happy all day—as they did when our tester wore them..." go to full review
Marketed for all-around performance, the Lynx is a comfy trad shoe with a little sass. The last is slightly asymmetric and ever-so-slightly downturned, which adds an element of performance to an otherwise average shoe. Unlined leather uppers and a padded mesh tongue make it comfortable to wear all day if you size them generously. (A tighter fit will take advantage of the last shape, transforming the Lynx into a shoe that can handle overhangs.) Laces cinch the top of the shoe but don’t extend..." go to full review
The original Flash was Mad Rock’s price-point, all-around shoe. And at $60, it’s a bargain price for a decent kick. Now, there’s also the Flash 2.0, a comfy Velcro designed for more performance and a unique padded heel. A new synthetic/leather upper maintains fit better than the pure leather of the original Flash, and with a flat, slightly asymmetric last and average width, the Flash 2.0 is comfortable for most feet. Mad Rock’s Shock Gel insert in the heel reduces soreness from bouldering..." go to full review
“I was able to stand up tall on the wicked, pocketed feet of Mr. Witty (V6) in the Happies as much as the minuscule foot crystals that litter the Buttermilks,” said a boulderer who took them to Bishop. “I would highly recommend these shoes for a beginner-intermediate climber looking for more response and sensitivity in overhanging terrain.” Where the Kintaro really shines is combining performance and comfort—a huge plus for long sport routes or long, technical trad climbs.go to full review
Over the years, Evolv has made plenty of good climbing shoes, but the Shaman is the company’s first truly world-class shoe. The Shaman, designed by Chris Sharma, edges well and is sensitive enough for secure grabbing on overhangs. It fits most foot sizes and shapes: narrow to wide and low to high volume, and the tight but comfortable feeling increases sensitivity without pain. Testers unanimously consider the Shaman’s 4.2mm Trax rubber to be one of the stickiest on the market, but when brand..." go to full review
The new Boostic (a redesign of the popular Booster) is a top performer at all angles. One tester described the shoe as being the perfect balance between power and delicacy—it’s aggressive but not too downturned. The tensioned shape of the last lets you transmit the force from your whole foot through your toes and onto the rock. Think of the Boostic as a superb edging shoe, but with the shape and generous heel and toe rubber of a steep-climbing slipper. Like most Scarpa shoes, it tends to fit..." go to full review
Five Ten’s latest version of the Team Shoe is the most sensitive shoe in the Gear Guide. The thin outsole (3.5mm Stealth Mystique rubber) and aggressive downturn allow you to grab holds on steep terrain right out of the box. Its narrow toe profile excels on pockets and shines at hooking, thanks to the massive coverage of rubber, including a high rand and coated heel and toe. The rubber is 20 percent thinner than on most rock shoes, and testers noticed: “My right toe blew within three months..." go to full review