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Grivel Plume HMS K3GH Carabiner
  • Grivel Plume HMS K3GH Carabiner
  • Grivel Plume HMS K3GH Carabiner
  • Grivel Plume HMS K3GH Carabiner

Plume HMS K3GH


My vote: None ( 5.6 avg )


Compact and light HMS carabiner with Twin-Gate system (wire-wire). The Grivel Plume ultra-light body is combined here with an HMS shape, to help the use with ropes. It is the ideal carabiner for the weight conscious mountaineer. The Twin-Gate system is safer, faster and stronger than any other locking system. Safer because it does not accidentally open, faster because it does not require additional manipulation (e.g. screwing) and stronger because two gates are stronger than one!

Retail price

US$ 14.99
Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

44 g


Rule of thumb

Almost every carabiner you use will be non-locking offset D’s, with the exception of a Pear/HMS locker as your belay ‘biner.

Offset D (aka Modified D)

60% of the market

A modification of the standard D shape, the top of an offset D is much wider, allowing for a larger (and superior) gate opening. When loaded, most of the weight is transferred to the spine of the carabiner making them stronger than most other shapes. Used for top and bottom quickdraws, as racking carabiners, and lightweight lockers.

Pear / HMS

22% of the market

The Pear/HMS carabiner is used primarily for belaying and/or setting a powerpoint in an anchor. The wide top means they can hold a lot of gear. They are almost always locking and are generally heavier (than D/offset D's) because they need more material to gain back strength lost due to their shape.


8% of the market

The first carabiner shape to be mass produced. When loaded, the pressure is shared equally on both sides of the ‘biner. Since the weaker gate shares the load with the spine, oval biners aren’t as strong as shapes that direct the load to the spine. The bonus is, your gear rests squarely in the middle, so it's great for holding nuts, pulleys, and prusiks.

D (aka symmetric D)

7% of the market

D’s have a symmetrical shape that sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like the oval). Since the strongest part of the carabiner carries the weight, D’s are the strongest shape. Downside: Smaller gate openings than the offset D.

Quick Link (aka Oval link, Maillon Raptide)

1% of the market

Although most climbers wouldn’t refer to this shape as a “carabiner” they are certified by the same EN standard as all the other carabiners. These semi-permanent links ensure the gate will not accidentally open. They're used when setting up a semi-permanent rappel station (not used while climbing up).

Semi-Circle / 3D

less than 1% of the market

Semi-circle: Mostly used by Search and Rescue as this is a great way to secure a chest harness.
3-D: Designed to increase the gate opening and to reduce the chance that the rock will rub your rope and/or the locking gate open. Buy if you’re the curious type; they’re not cheap, and there’s not many in the US.

Learn More

Pros and cons of each shape, graphs and more examples
Pear / HMS


main non-locking carabiners uses:

  • quickdraws
  • to rack (hold) your gear on your harness
  • part of an anchor setup

main locking carabiners uses:

  • belay carabiner
  • main anchor powerpoint
  • when you need the gate to stay shut

screw gate vs auto-locking gate

Screw gates are generally lighter and cheaper.

Auto-locking gates are usually considered safer as they automatically snap shut, not counting on one's memory to close and are harder to accidentally unlock. The debate comes on opening speed as some are much faster while others can be a struggle.

Learn More

See the newest auto-locking gate technologies
Auto - 2 action
Straight or Bent

Straight or Bent

It's easier to see the difference between straight and bent gates on solid gate carabiners:

Straight Gate

The standard. Always used as the bolt-end of the quickdraw, and still sometimes used on the rope-side too. Also used for racking gear such as cam and nuts.

Bent Gate

Created to make it easier to put the rope into a quickdraw with their larger gate opening. Primarily used on the rope-end (bottom) of quickdraws.

Extra Notes

  • Choosing a bent or straight gate does not significantly change the weight, strength, or price of the carabiner.
  • All locking carabiners have straight gates.
  • Today, many wiregates have a hybrid almost-straight-but-kinda-bent gate and are offered in this version only (not as a classic a bent or straight option). We have classified these as bent gates since they're not totally straight.

Important Note

Many manufacturers are now making the bolt-end carabiner come standard in silver (to match the bolt color), and are coloring the rope-end with other anodizations.

Do not mix (interchange) bolt-end carabiners and rope-end carabiners. This can be very dangerous as small abrasions made by the bolt can easily wear your rope. DMM put out a great video/write-up on this issue.

Full Size

Full Size

Full size carabiners are easier to hold but generally they're also heavier.

This is a totally debatable field as there is no official size, weight, or gate opening necessary to be full size. There are no certifications and this isn't a standard the manufacturer's normally describe specifically.

We did our best to compare (descriptions, in-person use, etc), as a way to help give more information about this carabiner. Like always, if you see something that seems totally off, send us a note.



A keylock nose means the nose is smooth. Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less.

Keylock Benefit

The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement.

Keylock Drawback

Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates.

Worth Considering

There are more design features necessary to guarantee a snag-free experience, like the curvature of the nose. Some keylock carabiners will still catch on the nose because of the lack of a smooth nose arc (smoother the arc, smoother the clip).

Learn More

Check out our blogpost that goes over carabiner nose design to get all the details
Solid or Wire

Solid or Wire

Solid Gates

Generally on beefier carabiners, so they're usually heavier and more durable. They can also feel more substantial in your hands while clipping. Often favored by sport climbers.

Wire Gates

Featured on the lightest carabiners, so they're favored by trad and alpine climbers.

Some considerations

If you want keylock nose carabiners, then solid gates will be much cheaper compared to wire gates.

When wiregates first came out they were not trusted (too new, looked too simple). Now, it's proven that wiregates have less gate flutter and gate shutter than solid gates.

Learn More

Compare gate flutter and gate shutter
Gate Opening

Gate Opening (mm)

Gate opening refers to the distance between a carabiner’s nose and the fully open gate.

General Guidelines

top of your quickdraw: 17 mm – 22 mm
bottom of your quickdraw: 23 mm – 26 mm
as an anchor holding webbing/gear: 19 mm+

Adding bias towards a larger gate opening is a great option once you’ve narrowed your choice to a few similar carabiners and need help determining which one is the best.

Learn More

Gate opening comparisons, examples, averages, shape, sizes, graphs, and explanations
25 mm
Number of Colors

Number of Colors

The number of different colors that you can find this carabiner in. This color-coding practice was started with just 2 colors, usually silver (that goes on the bolt side of a quickdraw) and another color for the rope side. Now, carabiners come in 5+ colors sets known as "rack packs" so your carabiners can match your cams.

Climbers can also match their carabiner color to their harness or other gear just for fun.

Learn More

Carabiner Rack Packs Explained
Lock Indicator

Visual Warning

A lock indicator is a visual warning only seen on locking carabiners. It adds some sort of visual to show if the carabiner is unlocked such as the color red, a danger sign, an unlocked image, etc. When the carabiner is locked the visual indicator is hidden.

Only a small list of manufacturers add this safety feature, although you can easily add one yourself with a permanent marker.

Strengths (kN)

Strengths (kN)

In kilonewtons, the strength, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

Major Axis Closed Gate Strength

This is the strongest orientation and the way carabiners are designed to be loaded.

Major Axis Open Gate Strength

This strength is measured because while climbing, carabiners lying against the rock can be opened slightly as they move across an uneven surface. A carabiner can also open slightly during a fall as the ‘biner starts to vibrate, dispersing the energy (also called "gate flutter"). A weak gate closure (due to a poor/failing spring or an over-stressed wire) could also leave the gate ajar.

Minor Axis Gate Strength

Carabiners are not intended to be loaded along the minor axis (cross-loaded), but it is possible for a carabiner to unintentionally rotate during use, especially while belaying. Of all accidental misuses of a carabiner, cross-loading is the most frequent suspect, which is why there is a rating for it.

Generally wire gates are stronger than solid gates in the minor axis. During the test, the wire gate bends, absorbing some of the force, as compared to a less pliable solid gate.

Learn More

How carabiners are rated, recommendations and strengths.
  23 kN­    7 kN
( 5 avg )
( 6 avg )

Non-iced-up HMS locker for belays

Double wire doesn't ice up like an Attache or other locker
Round end belays and rappels well (haven't tried guide block yet)
SUPER light holy moly
Can clip rope from wired belay devices while captured to the locker
Not as easy (familiar) as normal lockers
I’ve used it a bunch
I'm open minded and believe skills save weight and fuss, so I did not prejudge this unique dual wire locker

This is awesome. Dual wires don't freeze like Attache.

I was able to manipulate the gates with Showa Temres gloves, Rab slightly insulated mixed gloves, and tight OR gloves. 
It's not that hard to get a bit of fabric of the glove's thumb between the two wires, and pull the inner, curved wire back. Then I push the straight outer wire open with my index finger. I can slot that thin wire gate through two loops in the rope easily (more easily that a normal locker's gate). The action is not so cumbersome.

Significantly less cumbersome that breathing and sucking on a frozen screwgate, trying with all my will to break the ice to be able to twist it!

I felt the radius of the stock to be fine with sub-8mm twins for belaying (lead and plaquette mode) and rappelling through a ATC Alpine Guide. Didn't try on other ropes yet. 


( 4 avg )

You can actually use it with double ropes

Light AF
The bar diameter for the important part is as appropriate for belaying as any HMS
You can (just about) fit two clove hitches on there with 8-9mm ropes
You can’t forget to lock it
Too small and fiddly for rigging to be a pleasant experience
Use requires a new technique that many climbers hate
There’s no way you’d ever want to use a double-gate karabiner while climbing
The wide end of it seems unnecessarily curved and narrow, limiting its usefulness
I’ve used it a few of times

When my Plume K3GHs (snappy name!) turned up I was dismayed to see how curved and narrow the "business end" of them was.

On first impressions it looks like there won't be enough space for two 8-9mm ropes to run efficiently when belaying or abseiling and it really doesn't look like like you'd be able to get two clove hitches on there.

Having used them for genuine real-life rock climbing however, I found that the ropes ran just as well as they do with my usual DMM Phantom HMS, the only difference being that if the Phantom flips around so that they're running on the narrow end it's still possible to pay out and take in OK until you turn it around again and that is simply not feasible with the Plume. The narrow end is really narrow, to the extent that it probably doesn't sit very well on wider belay loops. But if you're looking at a karabiner like this it's unlikely you're wearing a big chunky harness I suppose.

I was also able to fit two clove hitches on one Plume with double ropes and also just about managed to get a clove hitch with a double rope next to one with a single rope. I was amazed by this but it doesn't feel great- there's not loads of space in the carabiner so it's fiddly and while I'm one of the minority who's absolutely fine with the way that double-wiregate krabs work, I don't think they lend themselves to more complicated rigging. I will probably be sticking with DMM Sentinels for this kind of task.

Where I think the Plume K3GH will really shine is for using with a belay device in guide mode as the krab that just sits there with the rope running round it- it's so much lighter than other HMSs but the diameter of the bar is just as effective for this sort of task.

( 5 avg )

Super light, super safe, but small

Very light (lightest locking pear shape according to the site
Round stock at the top for smooth rope movement and durability.
Auto locking
Double wire gates a freeze and dirt proof
Easier to open than twistlock hot take it off your harness, or to clip it to somehting
Larger nose, to wide to fit through chainlinks
Small. Although the gate opening is decent, the inside space is tight. If you actually wanted to use this with a Munter Hitch, it would have to be with a very skinny rope.
I’ve used it a few of times

With the double wire lock mechanism, this seems like a very secure option anytime stuff might be touching the gate, like in a top rope anchor, even more secure than a triple action locker. The round stock also makes it great for that use, and the light weight is nice.

Crevasse rescues would be another great use for this.

Mostly I have been using it as a belay carabiner (with a DMM Pivot), and it works great for that. Round stock so it won't wear as quickly, and feeds smoothly (especially in guide mode).

Small size so it doesn't flop around, but big enough to use with big gloves.


Where I have concerns, is if you ever needed to use it with a Munter hitch. I worry that there isn't enough l "volume" for the knot to flip over. Of course, the skinnier the rope, the more likely it would fit. 9mm, single strand seemed to work ok in a quick try(not actual belaying).

Grivel Scream device & Twin Gate Carabiners

The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.