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Steve McGee

Reviews

12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm

Mammut
Mammut 12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm
6

Best double sling on the market

Pros
Tight hole for the clipping biner - much easier to clip.
Loose hole for the other end - you can girth hitch, clip more than one biner, etc
Narrow, lightweight and not bulky
Easy to unsling - wear it over your shoulder, under pack straps and gear sling. Easy to unclip one end then pull it out and deploy.
Cons
All white - would be nice to spot it more easily in the snow
Only comes in a double length. I want several 60cm runners like this!
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

In my opinion this is an ideal setup for a double-length runner. I like firm holds on the clipping carabiner - I use Petzl Strings and rubber bands most of the time. A tightly sewn loop enables this. 

Having the other end looser makes girth hitching with the biner still attached possible. Also, it's easy to clip the loose end to a cam's racking biner or whatever. 

Easy to fold in half and clip both ends to the same carabiner, including around an icicle, horn or tree.

Mammut or someone needs to make these in 60cm or 24" runners! I would much rather have alpine draws made of dogbones that a full loop. *I've tried the Blue Ice runners but I don't like them.

 

 

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Plume NUT K3N

Grivel
Grivel Plume NUT K3N Full View
6

Lovely little lightweight locker

Pros
LIGHT
Compact
Cons
None
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I used to have super light lockers from the early 2000's and the NUT is much lighter and about the same size. These belay fine, rappel fine. I am happy with how they do the job.

Turns out the screw gate is better that my old lockers, too. If it weren't I'd still forgive that, because THESE ARE LIGHT

 

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Plume HMS K3GH

Grivel
Grivel Plume HMS K3GH Carabiner
6

Non-iced-up HMS locker for belays

Pros
Double wire doesn't ice up like an Attache or other locker...
Round end belays and rappels well (haven't tried guide block yet)...
SUPER light holy moly
Can clip rope from wired belay devices while captured to the locker
Cons
Not as easy (familiar) as normal lockers
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

This is awesome. Dual wires don't freeze like Attache.

I was able to manipulate the gates with Showa Temres gloves, Rab slightly insulated mixed gloves, and tight OR gloves. 
It's not that hard to get a bit of fabric of the glove's thumb between the two wires, and pull the inner, curved wire back. Then I push the straight outer wire open with my index finger. I can slot that thin wire gate through two loops in the rope easily (more easily that a normal locker's gate). The action is not so cumbersome.

Significantly less cumbersome that breathing and sucking on a frozen screwgate, trying with all my will to break the ice to be able to twist it!

I felt the radius of the stock to be fine with sub-8mm twins for belaying (lead and plaquette mode) and rappelling through a ATC Alpine Guide. Didn't try on other ropes yet. 

 

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12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm 2021

Mammut
Mammut 12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm
6

Best double length runner

Pros
Tight hole for the bent gate - much easier to clip.
Loose hole for the other end - you can girth hitch, clip more than one biner, etc
Narrow, lightweight and not bulky
Easy to unsling - wear it over your shoulder, under pack straps and gear sling. Easy to unclip one end then pull it out and deploy.
Cons
All white - would be nice to spot it more easily in the snow
Only comes in a double length. I was several 60cm runners like this!
Bent gate biner not ideal - wire gate is what I want
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

In my opinion this is an ideal setup for a double-length runner. I like firm holds on the clipping carabiner - I use Petzl Strings and rubber bands most of the time. A tightly sewn loop enables this. 

Having the other end looser makes girth hitching with the biner still attached possible. Also, it's easy to clip the loose end to a cam's racking biner or whatever. 

Easy to fold in half and clip both ends to the same carabiner, including around an icicle, horn or tree.

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