Steve McGee

12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm

Mammut

Best double sling on the market

Pros

Tight hole for the clipping biner - much easier to clip.

Loose hole for the other end - you can girth hitch, clip more than one biner, etc

Narrow, lightweight and not bulky

Easy to unsling - wear it over your shoulder, under pack straps and gear sling. Easy to unclip one end then pull it out and deploy.

Cons

All white - would be nice to spot it more easily in the snow

Only comes in a double length. I want several 60cm runners like this!

Familiarity

I’ve used it a bunch

In my opinion this is an ideal setup for a double-length runner. I like firm holds on the clipping carabiner - I use Petzl Strings and rubber bands most of the time. A tightly sewn loop enables this.

Having the other end looser makes girth hitching with the biner still attached possible. Also, it's easy to clip the loose end to a cam's racking biner or whatever.

Easy to fold in half and clip both ends to the same carabiner, including around an icicle, horn or tree.

Mammut or someone needs to make these in 60cm or 24" runners! I would much rather have alpine draws made of dogbones that a full loop. *I've tried the Blue Ice runners but I don't like them.

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Lovely little lightweight locker

Pros

LIGHT

Compact

Cons

None

Familiarity

I’ve used it a bunch

I used to have super light lockers from the early 2000's and the NUT is much lighter and about the same size. These belay fine, rappel fine. I am happy with how they do the job.

Turns out the screw gate is better that my old lockers, too. If it weren't I'd still forgive that, because THESE ARE LIGHT

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Non-iced-up HMS locker for belays

Pros

Double wire doesn't ice up like an Attache or other locker...

Round end belays and rappels well (haven't tried guide block yet)...

SUPER light holy moly

Can clip rope from wired belay devices while captured to the locker

Cons

Not as easy (familiar) as normal lockers

Familiarity

I’ve used it a bunch

This is awesome. Dual wires don't freeze like Attache.

I was able to manipulate the gates with Showa Temres gloves, Rab slightly insulated mixed gloves, and tight OR gloves.
It's not that hard to get a bit of fabric of the glove's thumb between the two wires, and pull the inner, curved wire back. Then I push the straight outer wire open with my index finger. I can slot that thin wire gate through two loops in the rope easily (more easily that a normal locker's gate). The action is not so cumbersome.

Significantly less cumbersome that breathing and sucking on a frozen screwgate, trying with all my will to break the ice to be able to twist it!

I felt the radius of the stock to be fine with sub-8mm twins for belaying (lead and plaquette mode) and rappelling through a ATC Alpine Guide. Didn't try on other ropes yet.

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7 Loop Standard Daisy Chain

Fusion

Basic fat nylon daisy

Pros

4kn loops

Stiff-looking loops should be easy to hook

Cons

Heavy! not light (Not 20g)

Bulky material

Familiarity

I haven’t used it myself

https://www.fusionclimb.com/products/std-daisy-chains

Fusion's website claims this is 12 oz - that's 336g WAY heavier than 20g as claimed on this site.

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Dynatec Daisy Chain

DMM

Weight is grossly underestimated, apparently

Pros

Should be really light

Strong material

More compact than older nylon daisies

Cons

Doesn't seem like it is actually that light...

Familiarity

I haven’t used it myself

DMM claims this is 65g on it's own website, not 20g like it is here

https://dmmwales.com/products/dynatec-daisy-chains

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12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm 2021

Mammut

Best double length runner

Pros

Tight hole for the bent gate - much easier to clip.

Loose hole for the other end - you can girth hitch, clip more than one biner, etc

Narrow, lightweight and not bulky

Easy to unsling - wear it over your shoulder, under pack straps and gear sling. Easy to unclip one end then pull it out and deploy.

Cons

All white - would be nice to spot it more easily in the snow

Only comes in a double length. I was several 60cm runners like this!

Bent gate biner not ideal - wire gate is what I want

Familiarity

I’ve used it a bunch

In my opinion this is an ideal setup for a double-length runner. I like firm holds on the clipping carabiner - I use Petzl Strings and rubber bands most of the time. A tightly sewn loop enables this.

Having the other end looser makes girth hitching with the biner still attached possible. Also, it's easy to clip the loose end to a cam's racking biner or whatever.

Easy to fold in half and clip both ends to the same carabiner, including around an icicle, horn or tree.

Read full review

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Reviews

12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm

Best double sling on the market

Plume NUT K3N

Lovely little lightweight locker

Plume HMS K3GH

Non-iced-up HMS locker for belays

7 Loop Standard Daisy Chain

Basic fat nylon daisy

Dynatec Daisy Chain

Weight is grossly underestimated, apparently

12 mm Alpine Trad Sling 120 cm 2021

Best double length runner

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