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Reviews

Hurry

Ocun
Ocun Hurry Red
6

No downsides to the lightness

Pros
Lightest proper belay device available
Doesn’t cut any operational corners
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I felt like I was taking a bit of a gamble on this device as I suspected that it would be too grabby or have a similar downside because it's so light- the only devices that are lighter are those alpine/ skimo devices that are just a flat plate and obviously have huge limitations.

I was delighted to find that this is not the case. It offers a (small) weight saving over other excellent devices like the DMM Mantis and Petzl Verso but works just as well as they do.

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Sirana 2023

Edelrid
Edelrid Sirana Harness
3

Unbelievably non-abrasion-resistant outer fabric

Pros
Five decent gear loops
Light
No buckles on the leg loops
Cons
The outer fabric is not fit for purpose
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Within just a few months of using this harness it developed a hole from the point of my nut key rubbing against the leg loop. Other areas are wearing very quickly too.

The problem is that the red outer fabric is simply not hard-wearing enough to be used on outdoor gear. Far from being ripstop-type material it develops holes very easily and these holes run and fray, becoming bigger very quickly.

Otherwise this is a great harness which achieves the rare combination of being lightweight and trad-friendly and much cheaper than the other harnesses on the market in that niche. Very disappointing.

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Plume HMS K3GH

Grivel
Grivel Plume HMS K3GH Carabiner
4.02

You can actually use it with double ropes

Pros
Light AF
Compact
The bar diameter for the important part is as appropriate for belaying as any HMS
You can (just about) fit two clove hitches on there with 8-9mm ropes
You can’t forget to lock it
Cons
Too small and fiddly for rigging to be a pleasant experience
Use requires a new technique that many climbers hate
There’s no way you’d ever want to use a double-gate karabiner while climbing
The wide end of it seems unnecessarily curved and narrow, limiting its usefulness
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

When my Plume K3GHs (snappy name!) turned up I was dismayed to see how curved and narrow the "business end" of them was. On first impressions it looks like there won't be enough space for two 8-9mm ropes to run efficiently when belaying or abseiling and it really doesn't look like like you'd be able to get two clove hitches on there.

Having used them for genuine real-life rock climbing however, I found that the ropes ran just as well as they do with my usual DMM Phantom HMS, the only difference being that if the Phantom flips around so that they're running on the narrow end it's still possible to pay out and take in OK until you turn it around again and that is simply not feasible with the Plume. The narrow end is really narrow, to the extent that it probably doesn't sit very well on wider belay loops. But if you're looking at a karabiner like this it's unlikely you're wearing a big chunky harness I suppose.

I was also able to fit two clove hitches on one Plume with double ropes and also just about managed to get a clove hitch with a double rope next to one with a single rope. I was amazed by this but it doesn't feel great- there's not loads of space in the carabiner so it's fiddly and while I'm one of the minority who's absolutely fine with the way that double-wiregate krabs work, I don't think they lend themselves to more complicated rigging. I will probably be sticking with DMM Sentinels for this kind of task.

Where I think the Plume K3GH will really shine is for using with a belay device in guide mode as the krab that just sits there with the rope running round it- it's so much lighter than other HMSs but the diameter of the bar is just as effective for this sort of task.

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