General information with instructional pictures.
Our lightest quickdraw, the Astro remains a very usable unit at a weight that puts it firmly in the superlight category. These revised units feature colour co-ordination, are on our new 10mm dyneema and are available in three lengths: 10cm, 15cm and 20cm.
I beam back
Tech Wire gate
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One of the best deals out there on a model with lightweight wiregate biners. The Mad Rock Ultra-Light is one of the only competitors that costs less. However, if you buy the five-pack you'll save a few bucks in comparison to the Mad Rock, which doesn't come in a discount pack.
In general the quickdraws we reviewed are all good quality products that you can't really go wrong with. For someone after pure weight-saving then 12 CAMP Nanos will weight roughly the same as 10 Edelrid Missions. Where every gram counts this might be the difference between success and failure. Having said that it is almost certain that on most long trad pitches, rope drag is going to add a lot more than the weight of a quickdraw to slow you down, so a good mixture of longer quickdraws and extension slings like the 25cm DMM Alpha Trad will be more beneficial to help reduce rope drag. Those who are prone to fumble clipping might want to steer clear of the very smallest krabs and go for a good clean nose style like the Black Diamond Oz.
During writing this test I have had a trad rack consisting of at least one of all the quickdraws in this review and I have found myself choosing the quickdraw based on the placement - long ones for runners to the side, short ones for the low runners, clean nose for the grip clip, leaving the very lightest ones for the top. I wouldn't advise carrying 7 different styles, but a mixture of lengths and styles is definitely worth considering.