Alpinist

Time after time, the Couloirs softly caught our leader falls and were not worse for the wear. With the amount of intense use we put on these ropes in nine days, I was surprised that they held up as well as they did. Generally, I go through multiple ropes in a year. The ropes still look ready for another trip. In a few weeks, I'm taking them on a month-long expedition to climb granite monoliths in Alaska's Kitchatnas. Here "the wind blows [around the towers] like a whistling..." go to full review

Though it's true that the Serenity is applicable for all types of climbing, I still consider it a specialty cord. (Mammut states the Serenity is ideal for sport climbing, alpine climbing, comp climbing, mixed and ice climbing and multipitch climbing.) I wouldn't want to fall on it, on lead or when following, on Eldo's rough, sharp sandstone. The thought of the slinky line rolling over sharp edges and through loose rock gives me an uneasy feeling. For hard adventure climbing on..." go to full review

Overall, I found the Pivot to be a solid piece of equipment, and until a plaquette style belay/rappel device comes out that is light, requires little effort to belay in guide mode, belays both thin and thick ropes well, releases from an assisted brake with ease, and belays and rappels smoothly, the DMM Pivot will stand as a gold-standard item. Because I have a quiver of belay devices, I have the privilege to choose the right device for my day of climbing. The Pivot has become a regular tool..." go to full review

The Wall Rider offers good protection in a low profile design. It's less bulky than the Vector, yet more roomy underneath. For example, I can fit a beanie under the Wall Rider helmet (size small), but I can't fit the same hat under a size small Vector. The rear cinch straps are easy to adjust with one hand when I switch hats. And, major bonus, the Wall Rider's headlamp retention straps are wide enough to secure a goggle strap. The Vector and Meteor helmets lack this feature,..." go to full review

Overall, the Black Diamond Offset X4 cams can be a core component of most any trad rack. Their durability, big range, smooth handling and easy identification make them an excellent cam for finicky aid climbing or everyday traditional.go to full review

Overall, this harness is an improvement over the Hirundos, Petzl's ultralight harness that's been on the market for several years. While it won't replace the harnesses in my closet, I found the Sitta to be versatile and will continue to wear it climbing. I'm excited to use it this winter while ski mountaineering and next summer while alpine guiding...." go to full review

The helmet I tested is white with orange graphics (it also comes in green with orange graphics and orange with green graphics), reflects solar heat, and keeps my brain cool when stressful situations demand quick decisions. This makes me think that Seinfeld was right—I'm just too dumb to stop these sports...." go to full review

The Luchadors are constructed of a synthetic upper with a slightly cambered, semi-asymmetric last and an unlined-leather footbed. The midsole shank keeps foot fatigue to a minimum. And they flex enough to set the Trax High Friction rubber on subtle smears. A padded, single-piece tongue cushions the top of the foot that protects the laces from pinching into the tops of my feet and shredding apart when jamming cracks. Additionally, the tensioned rand, similar to the Shaman and La Sportiva..." go to full review

After four months of use, the wires still look new, and the heads have the minor dings and dents expected of gear that's been used.
Though I'll break out the Ultralight Curves for climbing hard, single-pitch trad routes—where I can just clean the pesky placements on rappel—I prefer other nuts because of ease of use. That said, the Ultralight Curves are the most confidence inspiring passive gear on my rack...." go to full review

When it comes to V-thread tools Black Diamond's First Shot is the most advanced. It is the first V-threader that cannot be replaced with a pocket knife and a piece of wire. And the only tool with a guidance system for quick and easy V-thread creation. Shaped like a large Swiss-Army knife the First Shot unfolds to hold two ice screws at a precise angle...." go to full review