Alpinist
After a few days of cragging, I put the Neo 3R to the test in Yosemite Valley on a one-day ascent of Mt. Watkins via the South Face (VI 5.9 C2+). Ropes seem to sustain significantly more wear and tear on these kinds of big pushes because the second is following with toothed ascenders and the rope is frequently pulled tight over edges. After the 14-hour push, I was pleasantly surprised to find almost no significant fuzzy spots on the Neo 3R despite a few big pendulums on the C2+ pitches...." go to full review
The JB and TC Pro are equal, in my humble opinion, in almost all the ways that matter. They both edge on a dime, they both crack climb well through the whole range of sizes, and they both are comfortable enough to wear all day long. In this last regard, I feel both are superior to the Maestro, which has a slightly more aggressive shape, and gets uncomfortable after wearing for a while.go to full review
The Cirrus is built not only for top impact, like most climbing helmets, but also for side and rear impacts as well, making the Cirrus a viable option for ski-mountaineering (there is currently no rating system for ski-mountaineering helmets). Expedition mountaineers, riggers, and other users will appreciate the toughness of the Cirrus as well. When traveling for expeditions, I have often carried my lightweight helmets in my carry-on for fear of them getting crushed in the underbelly of the..." go to full review
The Ocun WeBee is a great addition to the lineup of harnesses specifically designed for big wall climbers because it bridges the gap between a common trad or sport climbing harness and the big wall models that are almost too burly. It could easily serve as a trad climbing harness for climbers who want to bring a lot of gear and find the extra gear loops useful. Durability was my main concern with the WeBee, but it still looks great after I used it on Tangerine Trip (VI 5.6 A3) and Zodiac (VI..." go to full review
The Wildfire Edge is also encompassed by a web of laces—the "climbing lacing" system. This system reminds me a little bit of La Sportiva Mythos climbing shoes, where a lace runs around the heel and down through the front. Supposedly this allows you to tweak the fit from front to back, but I have a hard time discerning how much of a difference this makes. Having so many exposed laces also leads me to believe that this might be the main point of weakness for the design, as it is for the Mythos..." go to full review
I've used these gloves in Yosemite, Black Canyon and the Utah desert, and also crammed them into some sharp, crumbly choss cracks near my home on Colorado's Western Slope, and they're holding up well, much better than I predicted based on how thin they felt when I first tried them on. The synthetic suede has stretched a little, which is both good and bad in respective terms of comfort and performance; the thin rubber coating is starting to delaminate a wee bit from all the desperate thin-..." go to full review
The La Sportiva TX2 approach shoes are part of a Sportiva shoe line that includes the TX3 and TX4. The TX series combines the attributes of hiking, trail running and climbing shoes to create designs that are as versatile as possible while keeping the weight minimal. The TX2s are the lightest of the series, at 9.8 ounces, while the other two models provide increasing levels of support and durability, weighing 12.5 and 13 ounces, respectively. (A pair of Sportiva Miura climbing shoes weighs 8...." go to full review
When my partner and I began prepping for a Grand Traverse attempt in the Tetons this summer, he asked if there was any way we could take a 60-meter rope instead of a 70-meter to save on weight and bulk. Maybe we could get away with a carabiner block, or a tagline for the longer rappels, he suggested. No need: I had a Sterling Ion R 9.4 XEROS. Now my alpine rope of choice, the Ion R weighs 57 grams per meter, making it about 0.3 pounds lighter than other 70-meter ropes I've tried in a similar..." go to full review
I GOT THE OCTAPOD for big backcountry first ascents. I still think it would be a great tool for those. But you have to find a steep wall, and if you're hauling and carrying a ledge, you'll go slow, which means more food and water, which means (probably) multiple carries to the base, which means slower still. All of these variables and logistical concerns make the margin for using the Octapod for the purpose I had intended very slim. You need a lot of time, a lot of patience, and a little bit..." go to full review
It is sad and scary for me to hear and read of so many accidents each year involving rappelling and lowering. Though easy to say, "Just tie a knot in the end of the rope and the problem is solved," reality is not always so cut and dry. Knots can get caught in cracks on windy days when rappelling, and as much as we are encouraged to do so, most climbers I see at the crag do not tie knots in the end of their ropes. Red ends are just one more needed step toward keeping us fallible human beings..." go to full review