Alpinist
All in all, The Dragonfly is a good unit, but I don't know if I would consider them superior to similar offerings from BD or Metolius (both of which are less expensive, MSRP). Now, if I found that 4 or 5kN wasn't enough to catch my falls, all of this would go out the window. But the 4kN of other tiny units I have climbed on has proven to be adequate for catching falls time and again; so the biggest advantage of the Dragonflies (6kN in the smallest size) feels like something of a moot point..." go to full review
When all is said and done I think the new Petzl Quark is a great example of what we have come to expect from Petzl—lightweight, practical, adjustable, durable, innovative and dependable. If you are looking to climb predominantly steep and technical terrain, the Nomic is possibly a better fit for you. If you already have a set of the last Quarks, maybe you don't need to jump to an upgrade just yet, but if you want a set of axes that handle it all, and are in the market for an alpinist's dream..." go to full review
At 845 grams per pair, with a replaceable monopoint, the G20 Plus is one of the lightest technical crampons that has removeable frontpoints. They have become my go-to crampon for steep ice and mixed routes, but the ultralight design will also make it an attractive option for alpine routes. Sometimes a lightweight design can mean that the metal is softer and prone to dulling faster, but I think this crampon holds up Grivel's reputation for extremely durable steel.go to full review
Overall, I think these boots are great for mild alpine and mountaineering adventures as well as technical ice and mixed climbing. If I had more confidence in the waterproofing of these boots, I'd be keener to recommend them for larger objectives, as they are very light and comfortable. If you do take these boots deep into the mountains, add your own waterproof layer and bring extra socks!go to full review
In the heat of spring, the helmet was well ventilated, light and super comfortable. We climbed a few routes with funny overhangs—I bonked my head on the erratic features as I made my way up, which put the helmet's durability to the test. Overall, I have been incredibly impressed by the versatility of this helmet and would recommend it for anyone who wants one helmet that is comfortable and efficient to adjust, making it well suited for both skiing and climbing.go to full review
I hung a Bulletproof 'draw at the first bolt of Magnetar—one of the most popular (read: softest) 5.13ds in the canyon—in early May. It replaced an aluminum quickdraw that was already becoming significantly grooved. The Bulletproof quickdraw hung there four months, until the end of August. There is almost zero wear on the steel sleeve where countless ropes ran over it, see-sawing back and forth against the metal, climber after climber, day after day. The rubber holding the rope-side carabiner..." go to full review
The Up Lace performed, and felt almost exactly like the Anasazi Lace. I've got about 20 days on them so far, and an estimated 100 pitches on four different rock types. They've climbed cracks, face, overhangs and slabs. They've performed precisely as I hoped they would. The rubber feels exactly like C4, allowing me to stand on tiny edges and stick to tenuous smears with confidence and comfort. The fit is glove-like, distributing my weight and power evenly over the entire perimeter of the edge..." go to full review
As far as face climbing goes, I actually preferred the Maestro Mid to the TC Pro. On vertical terrain, I felt as solid standing on micro edges as I have in any other shoe I've worn. On overhanging limestone, the Maestro Mid felt significantly better than the TC Pro. I recently used the Maestro Mid for an incredible overhanging compression route on the local dacite. I found myself toe and heel hooking, and toeing down on positive edges without concern, as if I were wearing a sport climbing..." go to full review
I've had the opportunity to test out the Tower Extremes for several weeks in Alaska and I have been thoroughly impressed. One of the first things I noticed was the enhanced rocker. Compared to other boots I've used lately, the Towers walked like a dream. On vertical ice, they performed exceptionally well and felt light and nimble. In temps ranging from 5F to 32F, I've had toasty feet. I was recently climbing Bridal Veil Falls in Valdez, Alaska, and I kicked through a sheet of ice on a..." go to full review
Overall, the Reactor is a versatile and well-engineered tool that provides an excellent new addition to the Black Diamond family of ice tools. The only major shortcoming is the lack of a hammer (which must be bought separately). Although this is fine on most routes (and maybe preferred by some climbers), you'd need to make an additional purchase if you were planning thin, mixed or alpine routes that required specters and/or pitons.go to full review