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Built for experts who demand technical exactitude, the Instinct VS combines sensitivity and power to create a versatile tool for bouldering or hard sport routes.
Quality, performance and technology, all with surprising comfort.
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| Weight | 460 g Single : 230 g / 8.11 oz (Size 40) |
| Closure Type | 2 Velcro closures |
| Gender | Men |
| Volume | |
| Sizing Information |
European sizes 34-45, including half sizes. From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.  Scarpa-Shoe-Size-Chart_4.pdf |
| Best Use (Highest Performance) |
Sport / Face Bouldering |
| Asymmetry | Moderate |
| Tongue Details | not provided by the brand |
| Last Details | Shape: Arched (technical) Construction: not provided by the brand Last : FV Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FV. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way. |
| Upper Material | not provided by the brand MICROSUEDE |
| Midsole Material | not provided by the brand Flexan |
| Sole Material | 3.5 mm
XS EDGE
Rand: Bi-Tension |
| Footbed Lining | not provided by the brand |
The Instinct VS is a relatively new shoe from Scarpa that quickly has grown in popularity. It established itself as a versatile choice for sport climbing and bouldering, but it’s also a common pick for indoor and competition climbing (most notably, 11-time American Bouldering Series champion Alex Puccio cites the Instinct VS as her favorite shoe). The rubber-shrouded toe and heel are excellent on steep rock, and the medium-stiff rand offers more edging power than we’re used to seeing in a bouldering shoe.
A superb, hyper-precise, form-fitting, powerful shoe for high-end face, trad, and steep climbing, and bouldering/gym climbing. The Instinct VS has the best heel-hooking heel and toe-scumming patch in the Instinct family, as well as the most aggressive fit (read: least stretch); the elastic tongue with pull-tab lets you worm deep into the toebox, eliminating dead space, while the broad single Velcro closure is comfortable but effective for tweaking fit.
The Scarpa Instinct is a worthy alternative to other single closure velcro shoes like the LaSportiva Solutions or the Butora Acro. They are wider than Solutions but not as wide as the Butora Acro, and the uppers are tight enough to fit securely on low volume feet. If you want a shoe that can edge on a dime and has a heel that won't blow before your knee does (as our lead testers did), grab yourself a pair of Instincts.
The Vibram XS Edge rubber is as good as any “stickier” resole rubber I’ve used. New, they should last you for a couple of seasons. Then the burly Italian construction will further last you through multiple resoles. With years of use, the Instinct VS’s are sure to become your trusted companions.
Overall, the Scarpa Instinct VS and Lace up can both be described as all around high performance downturned climbing shoes. With the ability to handle a variety of terrains, the Scarpa Instinct can act as an everyday base shoe for anyone serious about climbing. With a similar look and feel, both models feature power and precision in the toe box and one of the best heels on the market. If we had to make the distinction between the two models, the VS version is much better suited for overhanging terrain and bouldering while the lace up performs stronger on vertical terrain due to its stiffer sole. If we had to find a negative of these shoes, it would be that they both have a longer than usual breaking in period, with the lace-up fitting slightly tighter and having a longer break in period than the velco version and that the rand may be somewhat thick for those looking for sensitivity.
SCARPA has really made something for everyone with this shoe in three different styles. A unique feature that they all share is SCARPA’s patent pending Bi-Tension rand. This innovative use of the rand acts like a reverse slingshot, pulling power from the toes rather than jamming them forward. The rand anchors under the toe box, giving focused power and a surprising amount of comfort. Another plus they all share is a minimal amount of rubber compared to many rock shoes, making them quite light. Asymmetrical toe boxes make these bad boys edging machines and a slightly downturned toe gives them power for pulling.
In terms of the performance, the VS is - as suggested by my all-rounder statement - a good blend of performance and comfort, stiffness and sensitivity, edging and smearing. I have not only used them for 8a redpoints, E6 trad and 7c boulder problems, but also all day VS/HVS missions on the Grit, climbing the Old Man of Hoy and too many other days to mention. In short: the Instinct VS really has been my 'shoe of choice' over the past 12 months.
These are a highly specific shoe, designed for climbers who are willing to shell out some dollars and endure some foot pain in order to execute steep, powerful moves that demand razor-precise footwork. If that’s the kind of performance you’re looking for, these shoes will shine. They also have perhaps the most secure heel of any shoe, ever. Their incredible hooking performance comes at some sacrifice of sensitivity; I’ve really enjoyed the Instinct VS for precise power on steep boulders and sport routes, but for routes closer to vertical with really subtle foot-holds, I’d still reach for my LaSportiva Testarossas.
The SCARPA Instinct VS is a specialist’s weapon that excels at precision climbing on vertical and steep terrain. If you’re looking to advance your bouldering or technical face climbing, I think you’d be hard pressed to find a shoe better fit for the job than the Instinct VS.
The fact that the Instinct VS hosts such a good balance across its fit, features and durability, means that this rock shoe offers (providing it fits your feet) a performance fit that will be able to tackle almost anything you throw its way – useful ingredients when you consider the increasing price of rock shoes. The ever present Scarpa build quality shines through, and whilst not cheap this rock shoe will certainly offer some of the highest levels of bang-for-its-buck of any shoe in its class.
All around view and explanation of all the key features.
