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Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe

Instinct 2015

Rating

My vote: None ( 4.8 avg )

Description

Thanks to the Bi-Tension System technology, maximum precision and sensitivity guaranteed to last, even with intense usage. Quick lace-up fastening for an adjustable, precise fit.

Comfort and breathability guaranteed by the 100% suede leather upper.

XS Edge Vibram sole® for top precision and sensitivity when hooking, as well as excellent grip.

Retail price

US$ 149.00
Award Image
Weight 225 g

Single : 225 g / 7.94 oz (Size 40)
Pair : 450 g / 15.87 oz (Size 40 )
(we converted grams to ounces)

Closure Type Lace
Gender Unisex
Volume ­
Sizing Information European sizes 34-45, including half sizes.

From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.


PDF icon Scarpa-Shoe-Size-Chart_4.pdf
Best Use (Highest Performance) Sport / Face
Over-hanging
Asymmetry Moderate
Tongue Details not provided by the brand
Last Details Shape: Arched (technical)
Construction: not provided by the brand
Last : FQ Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FQ. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way.
Upper Material not provided by the brand  SUEDE
Midsole Material not provided by the brand  Flexan
Sole Material 4.0 mm  XS EDGE
Rand: Bi-Tension
Footbed Lining not provided by the brand
Bi-Tension System Technology

Bi-Tension System

Innovative concept of active midsole adapting to the footshape while loading and unloading bodyweight to the forefoot area, for the best power transmission. The B-TENSION system supports the arch and forefoot area without taking away sensitivity.
Vibram® XS Edge Technology

Vibram® XS Edge

Developed to provide maximum edging support, the VIBRAM®XS Edge compound delivers excellent grip while adding improved firmness for the most challenging edging moves. This rubber compound is exceptionally resistant to deformation on razor sharp edges and it will not creep while smearing.
Other Shoe Versions male female

No reviews yet.

Chicks With Picks Gear Review no rating given just a review

SCARPA has really made something for everyone with this shoe in three different styles.  A unique feature that they all share is SCARPA’s patent pending Bi-Tension rand.  This innovative use of the rand acts like a reverse slingshot, pulling power from the toes rather than jamming them forward.  The rand anchors under the toe box, giving focused power and a surprising amount of comfort.  Another plus they all share is a minimal amount of rubber compared to many rock shoes, making them quite light.  Asymmetrical toe boxes make these bad boys edging machines and a slightly downturned toe gives them power for pulling.

Outdoor Prolink Gear Review no rating given just a review

If you’re looking for a somewhat aggressive shoe with solid construction, the Instinct is worth it. Relative to other similar shoes on the market, it’s a pretty good deal give how long it is likely to last. The women’s specific Instinct is identical to the men’s with the exception of adjusted sizing.

Climbing Life Gear Review no rating given just a review

After having taken the Instincts on dozens of climbing days from sport to alpine rock in the last few months, they've become my everyday, high performance shoes which means they are ideal for multi-pitch routes on the Diamond as well as frictioning up a Lumpy Ridge face or holding an edge in Eldorado - these babies can do it all.

Splitter Choss Gear Review no rating given just a review

I have to admit, I have never really been a fan of Scarpa shoes. I’d had a chance to try a few when I was working at Climbing Magazine for their shoe reviews, and they always seemed a little clunky to me. I mean, why would I wear those when I had my trusty Sportiva’s instead? After test driving the Scarpa Instincts, however, I have to say they have made some serious progress, and now offer shoes that can compete with the best of them.

Rock and Ice Gear Review no rating given just a review

I found both models to be confidence-boosting performers, especially on vitreous limestone smears and rounded sandstone edges. The slipper was both a sensitive and powerful edging shoe. The lace-up shoe was great at edging, and was a more reliable heel-hooker. Despite being sized snugly, the slipper often failed on more demanding heel-grappling situations such as The Buddha (V6) at the Gunks.

Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

It’s hard to believe, but Scarpa continues to outdo itself with quality, high-end kicks. The lace-up Instinct has a slightly asymmetric, downturned last that maintains its shape for the shoe’s life. The unlined, leather upper conforms to your foot but stretch is minimized with a grid of stitching. A 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip rubber sole and Tenoflex midsole combine to “hold a laser edge,” said one tester. The roomy forefoot accommodates wide feet while the laces ensure a vacuum fit for narrower, lower-volume feet as well. One tester called the Instinct his “top-shelf redpoint shoes” for everything vertical and steeper.

Instinct Shoe All Around View
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Instinct Shoe Review
Instinct Shoe
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Manufacturing of Scarpa Shoes

Video shows how and where Scarpa shoes are made.