P3® patented technology for a down-turned performance fit for slicing and dicing where needed.
Patented S-Heel™ construction provides optimal heel hooking maneuverability and the perfect heel cup fit.
Laser-cut uppers reduce stitching and bulk.
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|Weight|| 350 g|
Single : 175 g / 6.2 oz
|Closure Type||2 Velcro closures|
European sizes 32-43, including half sizes.|
La Sportiva Shoes are built on European half sizes which are smaller increments than US half sizes.
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||
Sport / Face|
|Tongue Details||not provided by the brand|
|Last Details|| Shape: Downturned (performance)|
Construction: Slip Lasted
Last : WPD 75 This means the last shape has a pointed toe, it is downturned and has high asymmetry.
|Upper Material||not provided by the brand Leather / Microfiber|
|Midsole Material||1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®|
|Sole Material|| 4.0 mm
Vibram® XS Edge
Rand: not provided by the brand
|Footbed Lining|| |
Pacific (in front)
Vibram® XS Edge
The Otaki is a relatively recent innovation from La Sportiva, combining an approachable fit with a high level of performance for both sport and trad climbing. We’ve worn this shoe on everything from vertical dime edges and steep pocketed limestone to hard finger cracks (it was our shoe of choice for free climbing Moonlight Buttress) and have been super impressed with its performance. In many ways, it’s a velcro alternative to the Katana Lace above, but with a more aggressive downturn (a PD 75 last vs. the Katana’s PD 55) and S-Heel technology that provide some extra oomph on steep terrain (we’ll note that because of the velcro closure and more downturned shape, the Otaki is not a great fit for most crack climbs).
After having spent more than an hour trying on ALL the climbing shoes in the store I finally settled on the first shoe I tried, the La Sportiva Otaki Women. According to La Sportiva “Otaki in Japanese Samurai slang is the oldest single wire sword: extremely sharp and precise on small targets. A concept perfectly applicable to climbing”.
The La Sportiva Otaki excels at overhanging climbing where heel hooking and precision footwork come into play. The Otaki breaks in to be fairly comfortable, but are designed with performance in mind rather than all-day comfort. If you can take them off in between burns, the Otaki may be the ticket to rock climbing glory.
In 2018 La Sportiva significantly increased their range of women's climbing shoes, with female-specific counterparts to the likes of the Futura, Solution, Kataki, Otaki, Skwama, Miura and Katana. This is a great development for women (obviously), as it provides far wider choice. However, it's only better if it's a genuine and significant change to what's out there already. With that in mind I was interested to see how two of the new crop - the Otaki and the Skwama – performed. Having used both for several months now, I can safely say that each is brilliant in its niche. In fact they complement each other really well.
Both the Otaki and the Skwama perform very highly in the areas they are designed for, and buying a pair of each would be a wise choice for all-round climbers. The fit and design of both models represents the state of the art, for now at least, and this combines high performance, durability and comfort. I was particularly impressed by the Skwama because it took me by surprise – showing not only the characteristics of a great soft shoe, but also holding its own on edges and excelling on marginal toe hooks. For what they are designed for, the Otaki and Skwama are two of the best shoes available.
The La Sportiva Otaki works really well as a single shoe to use both for technical face climbing and the occasional crack. It’s comfortable enough to wear when belaying and on moderate crack climbs, making it a pretty strong one-shoe-quiver contender, though hard core crack climbers might want something with a little less downturn and asymmetry.
Another way to think about this is that the Otaki is ideally suited for the hard, cryptic combination of face and crack holds on vertical rock that typify the climbing in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. But if your goal is to spend the weekend swimming up hand cracks in Indian Creek or embarking on long, moderate alpine routes, you might find the Otaki to be a bit too aggressive.
For really steep stuff (40-degrees overhanging or more), I do prefer a softer shoe than the Otakis, and, obviously, I’d never stick my Otakis in a crack, but if I had to choose just one shoe or 75% of climbing situations, the Women’s Otaki would be the one. I’d recommend the Women’s Otaki for any ladies looking for one go-to shoe that can get the job done for most sport climbing and bouldering, and for anyone looking for a shoe that slays on the tiniest of footholds.
If you're after something suitable for a wide range of rock types and disciplines, then the Otaki is a very strong contender. It's built to last, and comfortable, yet it offers a level of stiffness and support that few other boots can match.