LaspoFlex
Super lightweight, ultra-thin synthetic fiber-laminate designed for maximum torsion rigidity.
Otaki Men
Description
P3® patented technology for a down-turned performance fit for slicing and dicing where needed.
Patented S-Heel™ construction provides optimal heel hooking maneuverability and the perfect heel cup fit.
Laser-cut uppers reduce stitching and bulk.
Retail price
US$ 209.00
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| Weight | 436 g Single : 218 g / 7.7 oz |
| Closure Type | 2 Velcro closures |
| Gender | Men |
| Volume | Average |
| Sizing Information |
European sizes 32-43, including half sizes. La Sportiva Shoes are built on European half sizes which are smaller increments than US half sizes.  la_sportiva_shoe_comparison_chart.jpg la_sportiva_shoe_comparison_graph.jpg
|
| Best Use (Highest Performance) |
Sport / Face Over-hanging |
| Asymmetry | Aggressive |
| Tongue Details | not provided by the brand |
| Last Details | Shape: Downturned (performance) Construction: Slip Lasted Last : PD 75 This means the last shape has a pointed toe, it is downturned and has high asymmetry. |
| Upper Material | not provided by the brand Leather / Microfiber |
| Midsole Material | 1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3® |
| Sole Material | 4.0 mm
Vibram® XS Edge
Rand: not provided by the brand |
| Footbed Lining | Pacific (in front) |
P3®
Permanent Power Platform used in climbing shoes to maintain the downturned shape of the shoe for the life of the shoe.
Vibram® XS Edge
Developed to provide maximum edging support, the VIBRAM®XS Edge compound delivers excellent grip while adding improved firmness for the most challenging edging moves. This rubber compound is exceptionally resistant to deformation on razor sharp edges and it will not creep while smearing.
Other Shoe Versions male female
Power shoe that needs to be more sensitive
by Griff6014 on 06/29/2020Pros
Great shoe for power moves, especially with the heals
Good for bouldering
Cons
Lacks some sensitivity when smedging or edging
Just tolerable for a wide foot
Wearing out at the seams rather quickly with still lots of rubber on the toe
Very stiff mid sole
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
The Otaki is a relatively recent innovation from La Sportiva, combining an approachable fit with a high level of performance for both sport and trad climbing. We’ve worn this shoe on everything from vertical dime edges and steep pocketed limestone to hard finger cracks (it was our shoe of choice for free climbing Moonlight Buttress) and have been super impressed with its performance. In many ways, it’s a velcro alternative to the Katana Lace above, but with a more aggressive downturn (a PD 75 last vs. the Katana’s PD 55) and S-Heel technology that provide some extra oomph on steep terrain (we’ll note that because of the velcro closure and more downturned shape, the Otaki is not a great fit for most crack climbs).
These shoes are almost as awesome and versatile as our Editors' Choice, and you may even prefer the ease of a velcro closure over the laces of the Kataki. The current Sportiva line up offers a lot fit options with similar performance, and we hope this review will help you narrow down your choices.
Whilst the Otaki is sold by La Sportiva as an “aggressive all-rounder”, I felt it was more an edgy sport-climbing or performance trad shoe: super stiff and slightly downturned which requires precise footwork. If you have poor footwork, it will take no prisoners. But, if you’re looking for security on edges, or to get precise toe power on sharp and crozzly overhanging limestone, these are the perfect shoe. Just don’t expect to be smearing delicately up slabs in them.
Both the Otaki and the Skwama perform very highly in the areas they are designed for, and buying a pair of each would be a wise choice for all-round climbers. The fit and design of both models represents the state of the art, for now at least, and this combines high performance, durability and comfort. I was particularly impressed by the Skwama because it took me by surprise – showing not only the characteristics of a great soft shoe, but also holding its own on edges and excelling on marginal toe hooks. For what they are designed for, the Otaki and Skwama are two of the best shoes available.
The La Sportiva Otaki works really well as a single shoe to use both for technical face climbing and the occasional crack. It’s comfortable enough to wear when belaying and on moderate crack climbs, making it a pretty strong one-shoe-quiver contender, though hard core crack climbers might want something with a little less downturn and asymmetry.
Another way to think about this is that the Otaki is ideally suited for the hard, cryptic combination of face and crack holds on vertical rock that typify the climbing in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. But if your goal is to spend the weekend swimming up hand cracks in Indian Creek or embarking on long, moderate alpine routes, you might find the Otaki to be a bit too aggressive.
If you're after something suitable for a wide range of rock types and disciplines, then the Otaki is a very strong contender. It's built to last, and comfortable, yet it offers a level of stiffness and support that few other boots can match.
Features of Otaki Shoe
La Sportiva Otaki Shoe
