To Small For Alpine Draws
by KrisBrauer on 04/7/2020Pros
Light
Cons
Too Small
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times
Ange S
Description
Ultra-light, compact carabiner with MonoFil Keylock gate.
The ANGE S carabiner represents the best of both traditional solid and classic wire gate carabiners. It combines the fluidity of a solid gate with the lightness of a wire gate. Petzl's MonoFil Keylock technology and the H-shaped cross-section make the ANGE S carabiner ultra-lightweight, just 28 grams, and offer an optimal strength / weight ratio. It is therefore ideally suited for climbers looking to significantly reduce the weight of their rack. The shape of the nose is designed to optimize clipping and unclipping.
- Ultra-light and compact carabiner:
- it weighs 28 g and is compact, making it the ideal choice for alpine and multi-pitch climbing, where every gram counts
- size and strength/weight ratio of the carabiner are optimized, thanks to its specific profile and the H-shaped cross-section - Efficient to use:
- the deflector works with the shape of the carabiner to promote proper positioning of the carabiner on the major axis, and helps with clipping
- the tabs on the bottom of the carabiner help keep the STRING in place to better align the quickdraw sling along its major axis - Great durability and reliability:
- the MonoFil Keylock gate ensures smoother opening and closing of the carabiner and a much longer lifetime compared to traditional wire gate carabiners. The wire gate is inset within the frame, reducing the chance of it rubbing against the rock
- the nose of the carabiner has a hole that allows ice, snow or dirt to be cleared out
- wide rope and anchor contact surfaces for better rope glide and reduced wear on the carabiner
Ultra-light, compact carabiner with MonoFil Keylock gate.
The ANGE S carabiner represents the best of both traditional solid and classic wire gate carabiners. It combines the fluidity of a solid gate with the lightness of a wire gate. Petzl's MonoFil Keylock technology and the H-shaped cross-section make the ANGE S carabiner ultra-lightweight, just 28 grams, and offer an optimal strength / weight ratio. It is therefore ideally suited for climbers looking to significantly reduce...
Retail price
US$ 13.95
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Weight (g) |
28 g |
| Shape |
D / Offset D |
| Locking |
No |
| Straight or Bent |
Straight |
| Full Size |
No |
| Keylock |
Yes |
| Solid or Wire |
Wire |
| Gate Opening |
23 mm |
| Number of Colors |
2 |
| Lock Indicator |
No |
| Strengths (kN) |  20 kN  9 kN  7 kN |
Snappy little number
by tammctavish on 04/7/2020Pros
Smooth
Clears debris easily
Very long lifespan
Guides clip in well
Cons
Small Opening
Pricey
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Disclaimer
Pro deal purchase
I’ve long wondered why wiregates always had two wires—wouldn’t they be even lighter if you removed one? The sleek, innovative “H-Profi le” (basically I-beam) Ange S is the fi rst to do so, with its unique MonoFil Keylock gate, which the company touts as lasting longer because the gate is more recessed; it also clicks into a unique see-through nose that lets you clear away ice and debris. Looking almost like a Transformer or robot’s pincer hand, the Ange S was a sheer pleasure to clip: The Monofi l gate has the spring-back of a solid gate (very spry) and a welcome bit of ergonomically molded plastic on the hinge end that eases clipping. The gate opening can feel a little tight on unclipping or traddraw maneuvers, but the deep, broad rope cradle, notable on a biner that weighs only 28 grams, more than offset any hassle. It will be interesting, over the long haul, to compare the mono-gate’s endurance to that of double wires; I suspect it will be bomber, and I’d use the Ange biners in every situation, from sport cragging to alpine burl.
Ange Carabiners
This video talks about all the advantages of using Ange carabiners.
Ange Carabiners
Petzl Ange Carabiner Review
Petzl Ange Carabiners
Ange carabiner review by Neil Gresham.
Petzl Ange S Review by Outdoor Gear Lab
Comparison Black Diamond Oz vs Petzl Ange
Instruction for Ange Carabiners
Watch a tour of Petzl's facilities as they explain all the testing involved
Warning: This video is dubbed in English. If you're getting antsy, skip to section 7:40-8:15 for one of the most interesting parts, where they show a hardware specific camera inspection.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Describes with words and helpful photos, how to protect your Petzl carabiners.
A checklist helping you monitor your carabiners health, helping to know when to retire your personal protection equipment.
A pictoral representation of UIAA-121 and EN-12275 standards for connectors (the UIAA's fancy word for carabiners).
Description of how to use with helpful instructional pictures.