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KrisBrauer

Reviews

Ange S

Petzl
Petzl Ange S Full View
2.04

To Small For Alpine Draws

Pros
Light
Cons
Too Small
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

I borrowed some alpine draws that used these carabiners. The concept is intreaguing, but in use, expecially after a few missed clips while ice climbing it doesn't live up to the expectations. The carabiners are a little to small, so without the extra handle of a dog bone I wasn't able to manipulate it well. My glove were thin but even still I had some difficulty manipulating the gate on the carabiner. Over all, not that great.

Sirocco 2023

Petzl
Petzl Sirocco Climbing Helmet
5.04

Feathers That Protect Your Noggin

Pros
Super Light
Breathable
Cons
Hard to adjust with gloves

Wearing this helmet seems like a joke, but Petzl doesn't make jokes and this helmet is the real deal. This helmet is incredibly light, super breathable and exceptionally comfortable. In winter, under a shell, the helmet keeps your head cozy. Durability wise, it holds up pretty well squished in a backpack. On the downside, the magnetic buckle is sometimes finnicky and the rear size adjust is difficult to use with gloves on.

Gully Hammer

Petzl
Petzl Gully Hammer Ice Axe
5.04

How Light Can An Ice Tool Get?

Pros
Light
Swings and Sticks very well
Cons
Pick not replaceable
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

The Petzl Gully might be the secret sauce for remote ice climbs. Lighter than a lot of standard piolets, this axe climbs as well as its heavier cousins, though there isn't always the knuckle clearnace you'd like on super featured ice. Sticks are solid in all kinds of ice and the pick shape is good for a few moves of mixed, though because the picks aren't replaceable, their sustained mixed use probably isn't recomended. Overall, this is a great axe for the occasional or remote ice pitch.

Gully Adze

Petzl
Petzl Gully Adze Ice Axe
5.04

Could Ice Tools Get This Light?

Pros
Super Light
Swings and sticks very well
Cons
Pick not replaceable
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

The Petzl Gully might be the secret sauce for remote ice climbs. Lighter than a lot of standard piolets, this axe climbs as well as its heavier cousins, though there isn't always the knuckle clearnace you'd like on super featured ice. Sticks are solid in all kinds of ice and the pick shape is good for a few moves of mixed, though because the picks aren't replaceable, their sustained mixed use probably isn't recomended. Overall, this is a great axe for the occasional or remote ice pitch.

FS Mini II

Metolius
Metolius FS Mini II Carabiner Full View
3

Not That Great

Pros
Light
Cons
Hard to use
Snags a lot
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I wanted to like this carabiner but it feels even smaller than it actually is. The thick spine seems to roll in my fingers and its geometry doesn't play well with my hands. The grab and open motion is never as smooth as it is with other carabiner. In addition the nose seems to snag more than any other wire gate I've ever used. I still use it to clip my gloves to my harness, but other than that, these carabiners aren't that great.

4.02

Full Featured, Light and Mostly Comfortable

Pros
Light
Packs down pretty small
Cons
Legs loops are uncomfortable
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

This is a pretty good alpine focused harness. The waist belt is comfortable and the gear loops work pretty well, though gear tends to bunch up together when the loops are super stuffed. Also I wish it had ice clipper slots behind all the gear loops as the slots in front of the gear loops don't do much good. That being said, I've only ever needed two ice clippers, positioned between the gear loops, and that works great on this harness. The biggest issue is that with extended handing the leg loops become super uncomfortable. Overall this is a good harness for ice climbing and and objectives that require a light, but not super comfortable harness.

Express 13cm

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Express 13cm
5.04

Screw That Ice

Pros
Screws In Fast
Two holes make rigging easier
Cons
Heavy
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

These the ice screws that others are measured against. They work great, cutting through the ice without binding or stopping. If they get stuck, stop, you've hit a rock. The carabiners holes are appropriately sized, I haven't had a carabiner that refused to fit and they super easy to clip with most carabiners, a real plus on the sharp end. On the down side the coffee grinder handle isn't as bright as Petzl's and they aren't as light as any of the aluminum/steel hybrids, but overall these are great workhorse ice screws that will serve you well.

Express 16cm

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Express 16cm
5.04

Screw That Ice

Pros
Screws In Fast
Two holes make rigging easier
Cons
Heavy
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

These the ice screws that others are measured against. They work great, cutting through the ice without binding or stopping. If they get stuck, stop, you've hit a rock. The carabiners holes are appropriately sized, I haven't had a carabiner that refused to fit and they super easy to clip with most carabiners, a real plus on the sharp end. On the down side the coffee grinder handle isn't as bright as Petzl's and they aren't as light as any of the aluminum/steel hybrids, but overall these are great workhorse ice screws that will serve you well.

Express 22cm

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Express 22cm
5.04

Screw That Ice

Pros
Screws In Fast
Two holes make rigging easier
Cons
Heavy
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

These the ice screws that others are measured against. They work great, cutting through the ice without binding or stopping. If they get stuck, stop, you've hit a rock. The carabiners holes are appropriately sized, I haven't had a carabiner that refused to fit and they super easy to clip with most carabiners, a real plus on the sharp end. On the down side the coffee grinder handle isn't as bright as Petzl's and they aren't as light as any of the aluminum/steel hybrids, but overall these are great workhorse ice screws that will serve you well.

Express 19cm

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Express 19cm
5.04

Screw That Ice!

Pros
Screws in fast
Two separate carabiner holes allow for rigging flexibility
Cons
Color coding is hard to see
Heavy
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

These the ice screws that others are measured against. They work great, cutting through the ice without binding or stopping. If they get stuck, stop, you've hit a rock. The carabiners holes are appropriately sized, I haven't had a carabiner that refused to fit and they super easy to clip with most carabiners, a real plus on the sharp end. On the down side the coffee grinder handle isn't as bright as Petzl's and they aren't as light as any of the aluminum/steel hybrids, but overall these are great workhorse ice screws that will serve you well.