Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor.
Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel
Machined windows through device for weight savings
Auto-block release hole accepts small carabiners
Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes
Guide mode works with one or two climbers
ascending and descending
Dependable and smooth operation in all conditions, handling ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor.
Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel
Machined windows through device for weight...
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Device Type |
Tube |
| Weight (g) |
88 g |
| Belay Brake Assist |
No |
| Rope Options | 1 or 2 ropes |
| Guide Mode |
Up to 2 followers |
| Teeth |
Yes |
| Rope Range (mm) | 7.7 mm - 11.0 mm |
| Certification |
UIAA |
The performance difference between the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4 is closer than we could have imagined. Both devices are smooth and reliable when belaying a leader or rappelling. They're also reasonably priced and durable. The differences amounted ultimately to only weight and auto-block resistance. Although the Reverso 4 is an ounce lighter, over the lifespan of either device, we believe the ATC Guide's lower auto-block friction will actually save most users more energy. For this reason we consider the ATC Guide our top pick for multi-pitch climbing.
Because the original design was so successful, it has seen very little updating, other than losing a few grams in 2009; the current weight is 3.1 ounces. There are plenty of competitors, but the ATC-Guide leads the category in performance and durability. Climbers we polled prefer this model over others because it’s beefier, lasts longer, and loads ropes easier. “Ultra-top-notch-deluxe sums it up right there!” is what one psyched gear expert had to say. Another called it “the device that all other tubers copy.” A side-by-side comparison of popular auto-blockers showed that the Black Diamond version had more bite on the rope, and it was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch.
New and improved, the Black Diamond ATC Guide is better than ever. Every rack should have a tube-style belay device that can be rigged off the belay anchor in auto-blocking mode, and the 3.1oz ATC Guide is a perfect example of how to do it right.
Improvements to the Guide are minor but appreciated. The cutouts on the sides reduce weight slightly, and the larger hole for releasing the autoblock will take a small carabiner. Still present are the two friction modes, the higher of which is much appreciated when Mr. Fatty Pants is on the other end of the cord.
The ATC Guide accepts ropes from 7.7 to 11mm and feeds them smoothly. Pair it up with a dedicated belay carabiner like BD's own Gridlock or Petzl's Freino, and you've got yourself a party.
Introducing Black Diamond ATC belay devices.
No voice, but very informative video.
