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TheLinaBee

Reviews

5.16

2" of live-saving AWESOME.

Pros
Lightweight
easy to use

My first gear fall was onto one of these bad boys, and, as I am here writing this review, it CLEARLY did its job.

What I love about all the Metolius Ultralight power-cams (and why I choose to rack mostly Metolius rather than the more widely used Black Diamond) is that the action is snappy and easy to do one handed while ALSO being extremely lightweight. I can twist my wrist with the bigger sizes and know exactly where the cam is going. I can hang a whole pile of them off my harness and not be as weighed down as many of my climbing pals. While some might feel the pull-back is stiff (and IS compared to the BD cams), it gives me the sense that the Cam wants to return to the open position, which ultimately is where it will be performing its life-saving duties.

Performance-wise, Metolius Ultralight Power Cams are the way to go for me.

Mydas

Cypher
Cypher Mydas Full View
4.32

It matched my jacket, what was I supposed to do?

Pros
Lightweight
Clean Action

Bought 24 of these to re-rack my alpine draws and shaved 1.2 pounds from the weight of my rack. Might not sound like much, but every pound counts. These 'biners have a snappy action and while a little smaller than a standard draw carabiner, are easy to work with. The price was right and I am stoked to be using them.

Plus they match my jacket, and as we all know, gear is about fashion ;)

5.16

My what lovely nuts!

Pros
Lightweight
Good Construction
Ideal shape

I have owned and used a set of Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts for a few years now and find them to be fantastic nuts! The shape facilitates solid placements--the curve often allows it to fit just a tad better than some of the nuts with straight sides. Solid construction, great anodized colors stand up to lots of wear and tear, and best part: they protect falls :)

Couloir 2016

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Couloir Front
5.16

Less than HALF the weight and space FTW!

Pros
uber lightweight
easy to adjust
works with alpine gear

This harness is absolutely ideal for what it is intended: Glacier Travel.

While not the absolute lightest harness on the market, it still does a mean job, coming in at a mere 230g. If wadded up carelessly, it is roughly the size of a coffee mug, and comes complete with belay and gear loops. This harness is much more comfortable than a traditional alpine bod harness, but still caters to the glacier-walker in all of us. Waist comes fully open and leg loops unbuckle allowing you to get this harness on over your crampons and all your puffy layers. Don't sacrifice pack space and weight by trying to use your sport harness for glacier--let the Culoir into your life, you will be well pleased.

FS Mini

Metolius
Metolius FS Mini Carabiner Full View
5.16

Little bitty lovin'

Pros
Lightweight
Great Action
Cons
Rotating color selection

I got a set of these to rack my trad gear and have not been disappointed with their performance. They are the one of the lightest wiregate carabiners so I get to keep my rack weight down while looking slick. I can easily fit 3 smaller cams or 2 larger cams on each biner to save rack space.

My only complaint is that Metolius rotates the colors they have in production, so at any given time yellow, purple and brown (possibly others) are impossible to find--which only matters for color coding your rack. Otherwise, spot on Metolius!

Elia 2015

Petzl
Petzl Elia
5.16

Because it came in PURPLE.

Pros
durable
easy to adjust
Ponytail slot
Attractive
Cons
Padding at headband is pretty thick and makes for a warm wear
sits high

I gotta admit, for an impulse buy, this is one divine helmet. Having seen that this lovely helmet came in a great, bright purple color, I decided to buy it (because everyone can use a 'spare' for when their friends visit, right???) and have been absolutely thrilled. I can now keep my ponytail up (instead of having to take it down and deal with the flyaway hair) since it has a ponytail slot. There is enough adjustability in the sizing that I can wear a hat underneath for cold days, and the straps stay in place once you've adjusted them.

Aside from how it sits a little high, my only complaint is that the padding in the headband is pretty thick. On a hot day, this is uncomfortable, but quickly goes to the back of your mind when working a climb. Definitely not enough to make me think I need a different helmet. Elia FTW.

ATC Guide 2018

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC Guide Green
4.32

Making life easier, one grippy belay at a time.

Pros
Lightweight
durable
multi-use

This is a great multi-use belay device. The toothed side is perfect for belaying a heavier climber, or for a single-rope rappel; the device is great for belaying a lead climber, or a top-roper and can be used to belay off an anchor. After 2 years of belaying with this device, the teeth are definitely showing signs of wear, but due to the triangular shape it is still sufficient for a controlled belay or rappel. If you're only going to buy one belay device this one is pretty great!

Luna

Petzl
Petzl Luna Front View
5.16

For cragging, not crossing glaciers.

Pros
Great Fit
Breathable
Secure
Cons
heavyish

This harness performs supremely well for gym climbing, outdoor sport and trad, and multi-pitch climbs alike. It is sturdily constructed and fits my dinosaur thigh/small waist combination like a dream. The slick nylon is easy to adjust, while the auto doublebacks grip to keep the adjustments where you want them. The waistband is mesh helping with air circulation; gear loops are easy to access and strong enough to withstand a heavy beating. I have been using my Luna harness for 3+ years and it looks brand new (minus a little dirt). I would definitely recommend this harness to all my dudegirls.

While this harness is QUEEN for rock everywhere, I would recommend something lighter and more compactable for glacier travel. Due to the doublebacks being sewn and a size more tailored to fewer layers, getting this puppy over crampons and thick layers is inadvisable.

Elios

Petzl
Petzl Elios Helmet
3.48

Keepin' my dome safe...crookedly.

Pros
Strong plastic shell
easy to adjust
Cons
No ponytail cutout
sits crookedly

I will admit, when it comes to keeping my dome safe, I mostly am concerned with function but it DOES sometimes annoy me that I will have this bad boy buckled down, cranked nice and snug against my forehead and STILL have it sit all sideways. It also requires hair to be let down or worn in braids due to its lack of ponytail cutout. However, after having this helmet for 3+ years and subjecting it to all kinds of abuse it has held up well--no broken components, and only cosmetic scratches. Good, functional helmet.

Pro Key with Leash

Wild Country
Wild Country Pro Key with Leash
4.32

Drop-proof, that's all i ask.

Pros
STURDY!
Comes with it's own leash...
Cons
Pretty hefty

As far as opinions stand, a nut tool is gonna rank low on the list of "super great I love it!" scale. But, worthwhile things to know about this bad boy: it isn't gonna break if you pound on it to work your gear outta the wall and the likelihood of dropping it is significantly decresed (when used correctly) by the handy dandy leash it is attached to. The leash can be a little cumbersome--stretching it out always makes it want to return to your harness unbidden, but I do enjoy that it compacts to a short length that stays outta my way when i am climbing. Definitely a good, reliable product.