Intuitive belay device with reliable blocking of the climbing rope. The first generation of the Smart belay device was successfully launched in 2009. Built on the experience the new Smart 2.0 offers significantly improved braking effectiveness as well as optimized geometry and intuitive handling. The newly developed brake insert blocks the rope in the event of a fall. The belaying action of the Smart 2.0 is the same as the previous model and is therefore tailored to the belayer's reflex movements.
- As it operates according to the tube principle, the Smart 2.0 is therefore suitable for both lead climbing and top rope climbing.
- In the event of a fall, the Smart 2.0 blocks the climbing rope, with the newly developed high-performance brake insert interacting with the belay carabiner. It therefore offers the belayer optimal support and significantly improved safety.
- Mammut recommends use of the Smart HMS for the Smart 2.0.
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The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."
Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.
These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.
Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).
When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.
For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.
In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.
This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.
Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.
This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.
Tubers and Plates
When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.
Mechanical Brake Assist Devices
There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.
Where guide mode is used
|No guide mode|
|Belay Brake Assist
Belay Brake Assist
This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.
This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.
Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.
Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).
|Rope Range (mm)|
Rope Range (mm)
The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.
This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.
Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.
|8.7 mm - 10.5 mm |
The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.
To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.
Passive assisted braking devices have elicited a lot of "whys?" from people when they spotted us testing them out at the crag. Think of them as a cross between a GriGri and an ATC. If you're partial to tube-style devices but want some extra holding power and security, then the Smart 2.0 is a great choice. If you've always used a GriGri but are open to trying something lighter and less expensive, the Smart also fills that bill.
Well, I have to say that the first time I took the Smart 2.0 to the climbing wall and belayed a lead climber I did find it a little tricky. General paying out of the rope wasn’t a problem, but I found it hard to smoothly feed out rope when they wanted to quickly pull some through to clip protection - initially both my partner and I were getting a bit frustrated because they wanted rope quickly and I struggled to provide it. This isn’t a problem exclusive to the Smart device though and, infact, every assisted-braking device I have used has this tendency because, at the end of the day, they are designed to brake.
This new iteration of the Smart (the 2.0 hit shelves earlier this year, while the original debuted in 2009) has more ergonomic geometry than its predecessor. The device requires you to tilt the nose up or down with your brake hand depending on whether you’re letting out slack or not. The new shape of the device allows smoother braking and unlocking the device from the brake position is easier. Your brake hand’s thumb rests on the underside of the device, which has a new rubber insert to make it more comfortable. There is also a new steel insert within the device that helps the device brake even better.