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Username

Carlosdlp

Reviews

Smart 2.0

Mammut
Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device
6

The grigri of the Tubers

Pros
Lightweight
Simple
Really safe slack-giving sequence
Catches 100%
Gives slack nicely even with different diameters and dirty ropes
Cons
Squeaks painfully when not in use
You have to learn a new slack-giving sequence
Catches hard; dynamic catches are really important
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I use it always and the only reason I consider buying a grigri is if I someday want to top role solo climb. The device is ideal for both lead and top rope. It feels extremely safe and smooth. I consider it to be the safest sequence in a belay device, as soon as you give slack, you have to engage the breaking mechanism, so the procedure is safe at all times; even if your climber falls during clipping. However, I tend to keep it in my backpack when not in use, because it squeaks in yopur harness. Also, it wouldn't help at the top of a crag. It doesn't have a rapel function, so don't bring it with you to the top as it is useless there.