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Rachel Saker

Reviews

Mega Jul 2023

Edelrid
Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device
3

Obnoxious for lead belaying

Pros
Very responsive autolock
Cons
Constantly locks up while lead belaying
Obnoxious to constantly tilt device with thumb loop
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

Bought one because the gym required assisted devices... Really annoying to constantly keep thumb in loop of device to maintain the tilt, especially with newer lead climbers who are a bit dramatic when they're grabbing slack at the clip

6

8mm long quicklinks are the kings of permanent fixed rigging

Pros
Opens wide enough to fit 11mm rope
Does not get hung-up in crossload on large plate hangers
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

The 8mm are the best quicklinks for permanent fixed rigging! Obligatory "stainless steel or GTFO"

Wide enough to fit 11mm pit rope

Short axis is broad enough that it doesn't get hung-up in a crossload on larger plate hangers

Short axis broad enough to swap the position of connected hanger + rope without needing to open the link and rearrange the order

5.04

Ascending fixed ropes frequently? You're not living unless you pantin.

Pros
Very compact and lightweight design
No cam lock (default), but available as add-on
Easy to disconnect from rope
Easy to put onto boot
Rope feeds very smoothly
Comes in black
Very secure foot straps
Cons
Shell wears out before teeth
Easy to lose
Left-footed pantin'ing may cause premature wear on Croll shell...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

If you're climbing fixed ropes regularly, especially with a frog system, your life becomes absolutely glorious the day you invest in a pantin.

The #1 killer of pantins is losing them after you take it off, so be careful that you don't drop it out of your pack or it fall off your harness gear loop!

The pantin shell will almost certainly wear out faster than the teeth. I wish that Petzl used a wear plate or something to help prevent that....

As a side note: frogging with a left foot croll pulls the rope leftward against the shell of the croll, which may cause the shell to be worn-out slightly faster than if using the right foot. This would only be seen after nearly a dozen *miles* of rope climbing on muddy caving ropes, so it is not decreasing the croll's lifespan for the average aboveground user. However, it is worth mentioning.

4.02

Djinns are the best biner ever, but why have one as the top biner...?

Pros
Djinn as bottom biner
Sturdy dogbone
Affordable
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Djinns are the best biner ever, but I don't understand why Petzl uses one as the top biner for these draws...

The advantage of a Djinn is that the gate opens wider than any other non-locker and is excellent for clipping across chunky knots, etc.
However, this advantage is irrelevant on the bolt-end of the biner? So why not have a Spirit or something slightly more compact as the top?

At any rate, they're great draws ...

Chest Ascender+

Climbing Technology
Climbing Technology Chest Ascender+ Ascender
3

Decent enough for the price point

Pros
Price
Durable build
Cons
Teeth are not very aggressive
Cam lock lever stubborn
Cam not snappy at catching rope
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

It's not a particularly great chest ascender, but it's on the cheap end without being from Wish.com so beggars (dirtbags) can't be choosers...

The two most glaring issues are..
1) the cam lock lever is a pain in the ass but adding a loop of paracord onto it helps
2) the cam isn't particularly snappy at catching the rope while frogging, costing you half of the progress of your stroke

It is a durable design though and handles abuse well.

2.04

Does not handle abuse

Pros
Ergonomic cam lock
Rollers mitigate shell wear
String on latch pull is surprisingly durable
Very small
Cons
Wimpy teeth
Cam lock spring rusted
Size poorly designed: cam gets blocked by D-link biner
Cam does not readily catch
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

This is one device that can't handle abuse or even moderately non-ideal conditions.

While it has some good intentions such as the rollers to mitigate wear on the cam shell, the bad features totally overshadow the good.

The cam face is so long (or the shell so short bodied) that the cam is blocked from opening by your D-link biner (ex/ Omni) in scrunched or crooked body positions (such as crossing rebelays in an awkward canyon).

The spring on my cam lock's trigger was completely rusted after about a year of cave use, despite cleaning my gear regularly.

Even when the teeth are fresh, the cam struggles to catch on rope unless you're using a foot ascender to force the rope straight through the cam. It is infuriating frogging 1-ft of stroke only to lose 6-inches of progress because the cam didn't catch. I experienced this on a wide variety of ropes, from 9mm semi-static to 11mm pit rope.

The teeth are meager, especially compared to the Petzl Croll or Singing Rock Clean Cam. The teeth stopped catching reliably long before they were worn smooth, whereas my Petzl ascenders are partially toothless by the time I need to retire them.

Ultralight 2020

Edelrid
Edelrid Ultralight Climbing Helmet
5.04

Best damn generic helmet available

Pros
Basically indestructible
Ventilation
Internal suspension
Affordable
Comes in many colors
Cons
Doesn't look cute (on me)...
No headlamp clips (but easy to drill through for brackets, or use ziptie)
Does not float
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

Its the single most generic, bombproof helmet out there and perfect for caving.

Nevermind that Petzl refuses to remake the Ecrin Roc, so this is the best we'll ever get...

Elia

Petzl
Petzl Elia
2.04

It might fit if your head is a perfect sphere?

Pros
Chin straps are very comfortable
Sturdy headlamp clips
Low profile
Cons
Poor fitting shape
Adjuster strap across back of head do not stay in position
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I didn't realize how absolutely atrocious this helmet fit until I tried on [literally any other brand of helmet]. The shape is simply awful-- it's not the shape of a human skull! The whole thing sloshes around horrendously and would simply fall off if I were to look up without the chinstrap buckled. It's awful!

The adjustors at the back don't hold their vertical position at all.

Croll® S

Petzl
Petzl Croll® S Ascender
5.04

Rode hard and put away wet -- survives miles of ropework

Pros
Small and lightweight
Aggressive teeth
Smooth, ergonomic cam lock
Handles muddy ropes without slipping
Cons
Upper teeth wear faster than lower teeth
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

After two years of heavy use on muddy ropes (totaling easily a dozen miles-- maybe more-- of ropework per year), I managed to wear a pinhole through the stainless steel wear plate of the shell. I attribute the heavier wear on the shell, versus the cam, to the fact that I pantin left-footed.

As expected when using 11mm rope, the upper most teeth of the cam have worn down decently. However, the cam still caught readily.

For an aboveground setting, I cannot imagine this wear'n'tear happening in less than a decade of recreational use.

The mud slot along the body of the cam helps keep the device from becoming glazed.

The teeth are very aggressive.

The cam lever is very secure in a variety of body positions, but also ergonomic to open while executing a changeover mid-air to descent.

The cam does not become blocked by Omni biner (central D-link) when you're operating it in a scrunched body position (such as crossing a rebelay in an awkward tight canyon)

I'd give this 6 stars if Petzl would use a more abrasion resistant metal on the cam.

6

The best damn non-locking biner for personal safety attachments // cowtails

Pros
Opens wide
Opens wider than dumb Black Diamond biners
Did I mention it opens wide?
Cons
None. It is absolutely perfect in every way.
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

Djinn gates open wider than any other non-locking carabiner, thereby making them the king of cowstails biners.

These biners are able to comfortably bite across both ears of a fusion or 8-with-ears knot (even when using swollen 11mm), and make passing anchors / rebelays effortless.