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Eric B

Reviews

OvalWire

Black Diamond
Black Diamond OvalWire
6

Solid and simple

Pros
Classic design
Good for holding passive pro
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I primarily use Ovalwires to rack my wired nuts and slung hexes, and they do the job just fine. I have yet to lose any gear while fiddling with a placement. They're easy to hold and manipulate with one hand and gear moves around easily on them. I can quickly and easily select the piece of gear I want with minimal finaggling. And since they're ovals, they're easily distinguishable on my harness.

Solid piece of kit.

Double Spring

Grivel
Grivel Double Spring
5.04

Old school but still cool

Pros
Locking carabiners
Stretchy
Comfortable to use
Cons
Lack of swivel at attachment point
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I bought a set of these used from a guy on Facebook Marketplace. They're a solid leash that will keep your tools attached in places where you can't afford to lose one. They're stretchy enough to allow for long reaches without pulling the tool back into you, but they don't get in the way when moving around. The locking carabiners were a huge plus for me, personally. I use a set of 2017 Nomics and clip these into the lower handle, and I hardly notice them.

My one criticism is the lack of a swivel at the harness attachment point. It would be nice to not have to worry about getting tangled up when switching hands. Not a huge deal if you're aware of it, but it can be a little annoying at times.

Booster S

Scarpa
Scarpa Booster S Climbing Shoe
5.04

These things are total machines

Pros
Comfortable after break-in period
Fit
Flexible midsole
Quality rubber
Durable
Cons
PITA to put on and wear until they're broken in...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I bought these shoes specifically for steep sport routes and hard boulders and they have delivered. They are very intelligently designed and perform like absolute monsters on anything past vertical. These shoes are supple yet aggressive, allowing you to feel the rock very intimately and get precise foot placements. The rubber toe patch is a godsend for toe hooks, and the thick rubber heel helps with bomber heel hooks. Meanwhile the flexible midsole allows for comfort and accuracy when placing your feet on small edges.

These fit me perfectly. I wear a 43/44 depending on the brand and type of shoe, and I downsized to a 42 for these. After a break-in period of 2-3 weeks they had molded to my foot. Every time I put them on or remove them there is a beautiful suction-cup sound in my heel. I can't wear them for hours on end, but I can get several attempts on projects in before slight discomfort begins to set in.

Mini Marteau

Petzl
Petzl Mini Marteau
5.04

Mini hammer, not so mini capabilities

Pros
Lightweight
Low-profile
Easy to attach
Adds weight to the head of the tool for more effective swings
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

This hammer is a fantastic addition to my set of 2017 Nomics. It is realtively lightweight and low-profile, so you hardly notice it's there, but it is a very handy piece of kit to have. It also gives your swings just a little more oomph, meaning picks set quicker and easier (at least this has been my expeience). Having the ability to pound in an old piton or hex is a nice plus, especially on mixed lines. I wouldn't want to hammer a piton in all the way, but I suppose you could do that with one of these.

Rockcentric 9

Wild Country
Wild Country Rockcentric 9
5.04

Cowbells reign supreme

Pros
Light
Affordable
Relatively easy to place
Good performance in horizontal placements
Curved/tapered surfaces offer a variety of placement options
Useful as a hammer to clean other pieces
Cons
Loud as hell
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Yes, people still use cowbells in the modern. They have not yet been cast to the bowels of the history books! The #9 Rockcentric is one of my top choices for cracks around the size of my fist. The curved surfaces and tapered shape makes placing and cleaning much easier than older style hexes, especially in horizontal cracks. As with all hexes, they work very well in wet or icy cracks, where a cam might pull. They are also significantly lighter than even ultralight cams, especially in the larger sizes. It is for these reasons that I find them particularly useful on alpine and winter climbs. However, as inexpensive as they are, Rockcentrics have the consequence of making my wallet heavier (because of all the money I save). They can also be very loud when climbing with them, but everyone who has ever heard of hexes already knows that.

They aren't a complete replacement for cams, but they have some major advantages if you know how to use them.

Nomic 2017

Petzl
Petzl Nomic Ice Tool
6

Stick with the classics

Pros
Good swing
Attachment point on handle for leashes/tethers
Very modular (different picks, weights, head attachments, adjustable grip)
Easy to find used
Cons
Not the best tool for plunging into snow
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I've used these tools extensively for ice, mixed, and dry-tooling. There's a reason eveyrone uses these for vertical ice. The swing feels incredibly natural (especially with pur'ice picks, pick weights, and mini-hammers). They just sink into ice and feel incredibly solid. They're very comfortable to hang on, and the upper pommel makes switching hands a breeze. If you venture out onto rock with these, they retain their amazing-ness. They don't start to falter until you get into seriously overhanging terrain (where something like the Ergonomic would probably be better suited). I use a pair of old beater ice picks that I've filed down for dry tooling and mixed climbing, and I've been able to push myself pretty far with those.

Finding used Nomics and parts is also incredibly easy, and most Petzl picks and accessories are backwards-compatible. Go to any gear swap at an ice festival, or online to Facebook marketplace/Mountain Project/Craigslist, and you'll be able to find people selling Nomics or accessories. Some third-party manufacturers also sell picks for Nomics (and other ice tools). The most well-known example is probably Krunokogi, but there are others. I expect to be able to use my 2017 Nomics for quite some time. If you want to only buy one set of tools, you should consider Nomics.

Magnum

Metolius
Metolius Magnum Crash Pad
6

The BIG boy

Pros
Huge coverage area
Quality foam
Affordable
Doubles as a fantastic bed for sleeping in the back of your car
Easy to transport
Cons
Small amount of storage space compared to some other pads
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

This was my first crash pad and I'm glad it was. It has a huge coverage area, which is nice if it's your only pad or if you're going out solo. The foam is thick and comfortable to land on (I've fallen 20 feet onto it and was able to get back up immediately). The straps and handles allow for easy transport to and from boulders. There isn't a crazy amount of storage space, but it will suffice if you aren't bringing an obscene amount of gear. It also doubles as a firm but comfortable bed if you find yourself camping out in the parking lot of the local Wal-Mart while on climbing trips.

If you can only get one pad, this is my recommendation.

5.04

I like the sound these make when racked on my harness

Pros
Lightweight
Easy to clip
Cons
Some colors aren't as vibrant...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I mostly use these carabiners to make alpine draws, and they do a good job at that. They hardly take up any space on my harness and they work in all seasons. The only time I run into difficulty manipulating them is if I'm ice climbing on a cold day and wearing very thick gloves, but even then it isn't that difficult.

They aren't the lightest or the flashiest, but they are more than adequate for what I do. Compared to the Camp Nano 22, 30g versus 22g isn't going to be the reason I can't do a climb. I might complain and say that the extra weight is the reason, but we all know that isn't true.

Sendero 2023

Edelrid
Edelrid Sendero Harness
5.04

Small but mighty

Pros
Lightweight
Comfortable
5 gear loops
Ice clipper slots
Sizing
Eco-friendly
Cons
Gear loops feel a bit small
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Upgraded from my Petzl Corax to this earlier this year. I was looking for an all-around harness for trad, ice, mixed, and alpine climbing, and this ticks all the boxes. First, this harness fits like a glove. I have about a ~29 inch waist and bought a size small (fits 27.5 in - 33.5 in). I can tighten it up so it fits snug for warm-weather climbing, but I have plenty of room left to add layers for subzero days of ice climbing. The gear loops are set back from the front of the harness, which helps keep stuff out of the way when climbing, which I think is a nice plus. The ice clipper slots are well-placed. Although there are only two of them I was able to rack up to 16 screws with larger ice clippers. Something like a Petzl Caritool Evo can be used to expand its capacity for ice screws. This harness is very comfortable for how light it is. And the fact that it meets Bluesign criteria is a nice plus. My only criticism of this harness is the size of the gear loops; they seem a bit small compared to other harnesses. I was able to comfortably rack a double set of C4 Camalots from 0.5-4, as well as a double set of nuts on the first two loops. Anything beyond that would lead to awkwardness when removing gear. I put most of my draws and slings on the second two loops, and was able to fit all that I needed. Doubling up draws and carrying runners over the shoulder helped to save space. The rear gear loop is where I put most of my anchor material and personal gear (cordellette, belay device, extra carabiners, prussik loop), but be mindful of how much you put back there. It gets crowded quickly. If you are concious about how you rack your gear and how much you take, or use a gear sling, this becomes a non-issue. All in all it's a solid harness.

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