Climbing

The eye-catching Sensa is a downturned, asymmetrical shoe with a unique fit that—thanks to the EdgeTek wraparound midsole tied into the front rand—drove remarkable power into the outer foot, making for strong outside edging. I sized a half size down from my SS, and was glad I did—you want these snug. The 4mm Fuse sole was grippy and sensitive, and the molded heel cup may be the most locked-in of any slipper I’ve climbed in. This light, airy slipper is a machine on the steeps!go to full review

The latest iteration of the Nomic improves on a tried-and-true design. The new Nomics come in at the same weight (about 21oz), but by shedding a few grams from the handle, Petzl was able to add their Mini Marteau hammer to the head, plus a stainless-steel spike to the bottom. Other improvements include a wider handle for a more comfortable grip, a glass-filled nylon overmolded upper grip (no more need for tape), pick weights shaped to better slot in cracks, and an insert in the head that..." go to full review

While you could certainly use the 6mm Aramid slings (60-, 90-, and 120cm lengths) solely for V-threads while ice climbing, I quickly found them to be much more versatile. During testing, the slings quickly revealed themselves to be quite stiff, almost wiry. As such, they are not simply for connecting your rope to pro—they are pro, designed to be threaded through solution pockets and connected huecos, around chockstones, and to sling horns, blocks, and chickenheads or get flossed..." go to full review

“Have I gotten better or is it the gear?”—this haunted me as I deftly placed the new BD Ultralights (13-, 16-, 19-, and 22-cm lengths; 2.6–3.4 oz) on the steep lines above Vermont’s Lake Willoughby. With instant bite, smooth boring, and easy-action handles, there was no need to run it out. Aggressive geometry on the steel teeth gave a bulldog bite, and the aluminum shaft—an ample 2cm in diameter—provided a smooth, stable drive. Add in a snappy, fold-out plastic handle, and these things..." go to full review

In late December, I took the new D4 Full-Size up Yosemite’s Washington Column. After designing the iconic A5 ledge 30 years ago, John Middendorf has crafted a welcome upgrade. Made of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum, the D4 packs into a 31.5” x 15” x 8” oval that fits nicely in a haulbag and weighs only 18.8lbs—the lightest double ledge on the market. The newly designed bullet connectors make setup and breakdown a breeze, while the unique curved corners add rigidity, eliminating the need for a..." go to full review

Last summer, I had the chance to preview the updated BD C4 Camalots. As I’ve continued using them on all types of rock, I’ve come more and more to appreciate just what great cams they are—streamlined, quick to place, reliable, and notably stable, with minimal walking thanks to the classic double-axle design. The C4s are now 10 percent lighter (thanks to more cutaways in the cam lobes), the triggers are wider for easier pull, the larger cams have stiffer stems and the smaller cams have softer..." go to full review

Metolius has updated the beloved Inferno with the Inferno II, a notably light (3.2oz) yet sturdy draw thanks to the double-layer 14mm Monster webbing, which provided a stiff, hard-wearing dogbone and made them ideal for stretchy clips or redpoint usage. I used them pretty much everywhere, from demanding multi-pitch trad and sport, to sea-cliff climbing, to onsighting, and was impressed by their versatility and performance, as were my partners. The matching oblong-D wiregate top and bottom..." go to full review

Mud and scraggly snow covered the base of the First Overhang at Flagstaff Mountain. Usually, this means a pad’s straps will get wet and, subsequently, so will my back when I carry the pad out. The Newton 4.0 solves this problem with their Omni-flap system, which protects the straps from snow and mud, creates a flush surface so the pad doesn’t get snagged while shuffling, and makes carrying additional pads easy. The 48” x 36” landing zone felt durable with its 4” of foam, and..." go to full review

Flossing into pockets and pressing against the limestone colonettes of Cayman Brac was tough in the island’s heat and humidity, which made my feet swell into small canoes. However, the light (15oz for M’s size 9), fleet Aleons still fit well. The shoe’s sculpted toebox provided mad power and precision for toeing in and thin edging, without the shoe needing a radical downturn, and the microfiber upper—with its breathable Primeknit closure—molded to my foot well. Bouldering guru Fred Nicole..." go to full review

The shoes in the Instinct line—especially the “orange slippers,” the original Instinct S—have for a decade been my redpoint weapons for vert and overhanging terrain, both bouldering and sport. I have a high-volume foot and climb short, highstepping and driving my toe onto holds to extend my reach; with their mild downturn and hyper-precise edging (odd for a slipper, but it’s true—I’ve climbed 5.13 slabs in them), the Instinct S suited my style. The new SR keeps the same Bi-Tension active..." go to full review