Climbing

Working off the tried-and-true, radically downturned, single-strap-closure template, Unparallel has created a fleet gym/bouldering/sport-cave shoe with power and precision on its mind. “The Regulus really stood out at Wall of the Nineties in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado, where decades of climbing have left the footholds glossy and polished,” said our tester, who plied the boots on the thin, gneissic edging of Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c). “The (shoe) might as well have been Velcro the..." go to full review

The Mastia is an interesting shoe, more high-volume than Tenaya’s other offerings, with a rounded—almost blunted—toe that’s been sculpted for edging. It’s also a soft shoe, which means that lighter climbers will likely feel greater control and support—one tester, a petite woman, raved, “The Mastia was excellent on overhung limestone—you can’t get much more precise than that,” after using it on the smooth dolomite of Wild Iris and appreciating how fluently the shoe stood on micro-spikes and..." go to full review

The Pro takes So Ill’s Free Range and adds a stiffer forefoot (for edging), a retooled heelcup, and a split sole for better front-to-back flexion. As with all the So Ill shoes we’ve tested, the Free Range Pro has soft, gummy rubber (in this case, Dark Matter) that helps it excel at some things—namely gym climbing, and grabbing and scumming—but perform less well at others—namely edging, which our tester felt was “rolly,” though he was testing in summer’s heat. However, given that these are..." go to full review

Perhaps the most specialized shoe in this review, the Furia Air takes Scarpa’s recent push toward light and soft to its logical extreme, rendering a minimalist, single-strap slipper that wears like a grippy sock. “The sensitivity is incredible, which allows you to climb with an awareness of the imperfections in the stone that’s not possible with other shoes,” said one tester. Our other tester echoed this—the shoes were a blast for big-hold climbing on overhanging granite, and he found..." go to full review

“I would recommend this shoe to anyone looking for a performance shoe but who doesn’t get off on screaming pain,” said one tester, who used the Voltage 2 to redpoint the steep, heel-hooking and edging climb Backdoor Man (5.12a) at Staunton State Park, Colorado. While this tester, who wore his shoes large, wished the big toe and heel had more bite, our other tester, in her tight pair, couldn’t sing these attributes’ praises enough. On a V5 on the slippery quartzite of the Swan..." go to full review

The Testarossas have long had a cult following, so it was no surprise that our testers greeted the 2019 update with both excitement and trepidation—“Hey, don’t mess with perfection!” They need not have feared, because the new version makes a good thing even better, namely in the form of the more built-up heelcup with perforated, bright-red rubber. One tester compared both versions on an aggressive heel-hooking crux on his overhanging project: “On Big Poppa, the new heel made the..." go to full review

“When I was cutting my feet on a roof or using the heel to squeeze a boulder, the Dragons did very well,” said one tester. “It’s hard not to catch your foot on something when there’s rubber almost fully surrounding the shoe.” Two testers also noted the Dragons as light on the feet, making them a good choice for thuggy, bouldery climbing in which your feet rip and you need to control the swing—less weight at the end of the pendulum. The new Dragons had a slightly higher-volume last than their..." go to full review

If you were around in the 1980s, then you’ll recall the Ninja, the world’s first commercially sold climbing slipper, and perhaps the ads for it featuring action shots of icons like Jerry Moffatt, Peter Croft, and John Bachar. The beloved slipper is back in 2019, with an aggressive trim for steep climbing but some of the same strengths—smearing, sensitivity, a low profile—that gave the original version its cult following. The Ninja has a high-volume fit that was good for one tester’s “big..." go to full review

While we reviewed the Zone previously (No. 366), the low-volume version was new to testers. Both Zones fall squarely in the middle of BD’s line, combining the aggressive, downturned last of the elite Shadow with the two-strap closure and engineered knit upper of the entry-level Momentum. Does this hybrid work? Well, yes and no. “The Zones were great for small footholds,” said one tester, who took them crystal-standing on South Platte granite and trad climbing in Eldorado. And, “The Zone LV..." go to full review

Ultimately, this rope has way more great features than negative, and I am thrilled to keep testing its boundaries across the board. Sure, its small diameter might make your climbing partners nervous at first, but every partner I’ve had who doubted the rope’s diameter changed their mind once they gave it a try. The Canary Pro Dry is an incredibly light, versatile, smooth-handling cord. Given that Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold used it during their speed record on the Nose, it..." go to full review