Rock and Ice

Petzl has re-imagined its flagship SAMA harness to create one of the most comfortable and affordable set-ups on the market. The new SAMA is pimped primarily as a sport-climbing harness, but I call it one of the better all-around rigs I’ve worn.go to full review

The DoubleBack buckle system is a single, pre-threaded buckle on the waist belt (or, in the case of the Adjama, on the leg loops, too). Many companies are now turning to pre-threaded buckle closures that you can adjust with a single pull. I’ve found that Petzl’s DoubleBack system works the best—a little groove for your thumb allows you to easily catch and pull the buckle to take the harness off. When you put the harness on, the action of pulling the webbing is smooth.go to full review

This harness is so burly and heavy, I’m still not quite sure what I’d use it for—big-wall climbing, perhaps. With two pre-threaded DoubleBack waist-belt buckles, a feature I often see on so called “all-around harnesses” and that I’ve never found particularly useful, the Corax is a heavy clunker. That said, it’s comfortable as heck, likely because it uses Frame Construction Technology in its waist belt. However, instead of thin mesh in between the high-strength tape (as in the Hirundos, et al..." go to full review

Fortunately, some great, lightweight and highly breathable harnesses on the market can keep that odious trickle off your body, and one of the best I've tested is the new CAMP Stratos. Incorporating two layers of EVA foam, perforated for high breathability, the Stratos is both sturdy and supportive, yet weighs just 12 ounces and is breathable...." go to full review

The Quartz uses pre-threaded webbing to cinch down the waist belt (yes!)—its action is very smooth and easy, but the tail of the webbing is too long. The Quartz comes in a fully adjustable version (Quartz CR), and a women’s version (Jade). The Quartz CR is heavier (17 ounces) because of its adjustable leg loops and two waist belt buckles (why?). Getting the adjustable leg loops sacrifices the super-cool Auto Fit design on the regular Quartz, but maybe you like having buckles on your legs...." go to full review

This is a solid, useful and affordable all-around harness. The foam-padded waistbelt has a soft, smooth fleece lining, and both it and the leg loops are easy to adjust for adding clothing layers. One shining, easy-to-overlook feature is the four wide, protruding and accessible pressure-molded gear loops, which curve slightly at center to reduce cluster.
My only issue concerned the waistbelt, which I found a little short, having to crank to plug the end in its keeper tunnel. I have a..." go to full review

Conventional wisdom suggests that more padding, a wider swami and adjustable leg loops yield a more comfortable harness. But that’s not always true. I’ve climbed in dozens of harnesses from quilted big wall rigs to alpine g-strings and often the simplest designs are the most comfortable. That’s the case with Black Diamond’s Ozone. Streamlined, light as a snowflake and functional, the Ozone is marketed as a sport harness, but I’m using it for all types of rock climbing from cragging to..." go to full review

With sculpted, compression-molded padding, the Momentum AL maintains its shape, one of the attributes I most appreciated. When you take the harness out of your pack, it isn’t all twisted up and you can quickly discern the right from left leg loop. I found the leg loops and swami supple and while hanging for hours on end, I didn’t notice any pressure points.
For a one-harness-does-it-all model, I give the Momentum two thumbs up. If you prefer the convenience of single-pass speed buckles..." go to full review

Alpine harnesses are the ninjas of the alpine world. They are ultra-light and compact and can remain hidden in the tiniest corner of a pack until the assault begins. Black Diamond's new Couloir Harness exemplifies what you want and need in an alpine harness. It weighs just 8 ounces and is as spare as a Zen garden. The snap-on, snap-off quick-release plastic fasteners on the leg loops make donning the harness simple even when you are wearing gloves and crampons. The legs adjust to fit..." go to full review

This was ultimately a small gripe that never detracted from how well the harness performed. I was always comfortable holding my partner’s full weight while belaying, or hangdogging my project. Even on hot days the harness never felt too sweaty. Nothing chaffed. I loved the shape and position of the four gear loops and, best of all, after nearly eight months of hard abuse, the belay loop and tie-in points still look new—which has definitely not been my experience with many lightweight..." go to full review