Rock and Ice
The Fuse is rated to 6 UIAA falls, and boasts an 8.25 kN impact force, and a dynamic elongation of 34.4 percent—while the numbers make me feel like Jessica Simpson, when I fell on the Fuse, it caught me softer than baby skin. The rope also comes packaged in a butterfly coil, which ostensibly prevents kinks in the cord. I had to flake the rope about five times or so to really get all the twists out, but the gesture is appreciated nonetheless.go to full review
The Chalkline is at the upper end (9.7 kN) for impact force compared to most single ropes, though still within CE standards. The Chalkline comes in 10.2 and 10.8mm. I tested the 10.8. After a few seasons of carrying ultra-skinny (down to 8.9mm) cords I was immediately struck by the rope’s hefty 77.8 grams per meter—I’d pick a lighter cord for backcountry cragging, or for rope-stretching pitches where weight is a factor. As a super burly, durable “everyman’s” rope, though, the Chalkline is..." go to full review
Weighing just over half that of its counterpart made of steel, the aluminum Laser Speed Light can nearly slash the weight of your ice rack in half. To compare, a medium-length, 13 centimeter Speed Light is 2.3 ounces, while the regular steel Laser Speed checks in at 4.5 ounces.
The Laser Speed Light earned four out of five stars, with one deduction for costing $20 more than similar all steel ice screws.go to full review
In hard ice, you can place a Black Diamond 22 cm Express Ice Screw in under 20 seconds, and sometimes half that. The Express Screws with aggressive teeth that are longer and sharper than those of a piranha, are easy to stab into the ice to get them started. Once you've set the screw, you unfold the small coffee-grinder handle that is integrated within the hanger, and spin in the screw. When you are done, you fold the knob back up and clip the stainless steel hanger. Color coding on the..." go to full review
The Highball 5000 is Spartan and effective. It doesn't have a pocket or flap system for carrying gear, but does have five inches of dual-density foam that took the sting out of falls from 15-foot jumps. The taco-fold pad uses five straps to bind it into carrying mode, although folding the beast in half and buckling it down is like trying to handcuff an unruly hippie. The strap buckles are plastic, but the female receptacles are cleverly stitched to the side of the pad where you can..." go to full review
The Carcass Catcher hinges cleanly and secures with just two buckles (half metal, half plastic), making it one of the easiest and fastest pads to pack up and relocate. A small, velcroed pouch sewn into one of the three closure flaps was a squeeze for shoes, chalkbag, wallet, snacks and brushes, and, inexplicably, was stitched across the middle of the flap, cutting the pocket’s potential size in half. A few snips with the scissors eliminated the stitching, creating a super-size pocket large..." go to full review
That said, I had to be told how to close the Mission properly, as it was a little confusing at first. Now that I know what to do, I like the closure/carrying system a lot.
Revolution uses the highest-quality foam on the market. Despite the Mission being only 3.5 inches thick, it felt just as sturdy and durable as thicker pads and seems to be much longer-lasting as well.
The landing deck is nice and large, providing outsize protection for a pad that is so light. However, its..." go to full review
Overall, this Full Pad/Briefcase combo is actually quite compact—nice for navigating tight spaces (such as between trees and through Hueco tunnels), and fitting in cars. Both pads together weigh 16 pounds, which is lighter than most “mondo”-sized pads but not as light as other full-sized pads. However, due to the extra protection afforded by having two pads, I was more than happy to lug this extra weight—even on hour-long hikes at 12,500 feet.go to full review
One personal pet peeve with crash pads is their mobility—how quickly it takes you to put away your shoes, chalk etc., and fold up the pad. The Full Pad is definitely one of the most ergonomic designs I’ve seen. It closes with just two two-inch Velcro straps that you loop through metal hooks, eliminating the (breakable) plastic buckle on most pad designs. The long straps also give you something to hold onto when you want to relocate the pad quickly to spot your climbing bud. Part of this..." go to full review
The Mad Pad is one-of-a-kind. It not only takes the sting out of falls, but softens the blow to your wallet—it’s the only pad under $200. It is also the only one with three hinged pads that fold out accordion style, converts into a comfortable lounge chair and comes with a separate cleaning mat. Besides the Triple’s budget price, the bi-fold is its most intriguing feature, letting the pad fold up into a narrow, 24-inch package. However, the bi-fold and the firm padding limit the amount of..." go to full review