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Over 2-years of study and research have led to the creation of the Generator Mid, the ultimate shoe for Trad Climbing. Designed for climbers who prioritize support, comfort, protection, with laser precision. From granite big walls to desert cracks the Generator offers top performance on the most serious of traditional climbs.
M70 Toe Rand offers amazing friction and precision for sustained micro edging and thin crack jamming.
PAF (Pressure Absorbing Fit) is an innovative heel system that helps both spread the force of the heel tension and increase the fit of the heel. The Active Rand rubber is interrupted behind the heel to reduce pressure on the achilles tendon and connected with 2mm XS GRIP2 rubber, that works like a bridge and allows full adaption to the shape of the heel while still providing dynamic forward pressure to focus power over the big toe. The holes on the side of the heel indicate the tension applied, which varies between 1 hole for light tension, 2 holes for mid tension and 3 holes for strong tension.
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| Weight | 620 g Single : 310 g / 10.9 oz (Size 40.5) |
| Closure Type | Lace Lace - to the toe High-top |
| Gender | Men |
| Volume | High |
| Sizing Information |
European sizes 35 - 46 (half sizes); 47 - 50 (whole sizes) From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.  Scarpa-Shoe-Size-Chart_5.pdf |
| Best Use (Highest Performance) |
Trad / Crack Multi-pitch |
| Asymmetry | Moderate |
| Tongue Details | not provided by the brand |
| Last Details | Shape: Arched (technical) Construction: not provided by the brand Last : FG Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FY. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way. |
| Upper Material | 2.0 mm Eco Suede |
| Midsole Material | not provided by the brand Dynamic Flexan |
| Sole Material | 4.0 mm
Vibram® XS Edge
Rand: TRI-Tension |
| Footbed Lining | not provided by the brand |
No reviews yet.
After three months of steady shoe-testing in Squamish, Washington, and multiple trips into the Bugaboos—where I found myself on gaping offwidths with unfortunate frequency—the Generator Mids have held up admirably. And aside from some minor glue failure in the tongue, the Generator’s rand shows no signs of delamination (a common issue in other brands), the laces look brand new, and the suede is hardly scuffed. Overall, Scarpa has built a comfortable, high-end winner in the Generator, and I look forward to jamming in them for seasons to come.
If you are still cleaning the sand out of your vehicle from your last desert tower trip, you carry a haul bag to the coffee shop, or you have never stick-clipped a route, there have traditionally only been a few truly high-end shoes on the market for the kind of climbing you enjoy. That is changing, though, and we are seeing some pretty impressive offerings for high-top trad specialists. For a similarly high level of all-around performance as other options, with even more protection and a slightly wider fit, the Generator Mid should be a shoe you consider for all your trad climbing needs. While Scarpa always seems to be pushing the price ceiling higher for climbing shoes, if big walls, gobies, and adventure are what you eat, sleep, and breathe, then the Generator Mid is worth the investment.
If you've got this far it'll come as no surprise to learn that I've loved the Generator and (to a lesser extent) the Generator Mid. This is the shoe that I'd hoped the Maestro might be, but wasn't, and balances performance and comfort remarkably well, with a lot of ability to edge, jam and smear. Whilst some will find themselves drawn to the Generator Mid, this is undoubtedly the more specialist of the two, may be best reserved for big wall and crack climbers. The Generator is a much more capable all-rounder that's far better suited to the need of the British trad climber.
Finally, the Generator Mid is a stiff boot, I’ve worn them a few times now and I still don’t feel like I’ve worn them in yet. That stiffness means you lose a little sensitivity but for the type of climbing I’ve been using them for that hasn’t mattered. If you’re planning a multi-pitch 8b then these may not be you. But for intermediate Alpine use, they are perfectly fine. The rubber is Vibram XS Edge, developed specifically for edging and the same as for the Maestro and Vapour. More durable than softer compounds so it will last longer. The soles are suitable for the excellent Scarpa resole service (which is more like a refurbishment) so I’m expecting these to last many more years of adventure yet.
