Ultra soft and sensitive, the Furia S gives the climber a barefoot-like experience with excellent prehensile grabbing ability. The asymmetrical and downturned shape with a medium-to-high angled toe box provides maximum toe sensitivity.
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|Weight|| 440 g|
Single : 220 g / 7.8 oz (Size 40)
|Closure Type||Lace 2 Velcro closures|
European sizes 35-45, including half sizes.|
From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||
Trad / Crack|
Sport / Face
|Tongue Details||not provided by the brand|
|Last Details|| Shape: Downturned (performance)|
Construction: not provided by the brand
Last : FZ Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FZ. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way.
|Upper Material||not provided by the brand Microfiber|
|Midsole Material||1.0 mm Flexan|
|Sole Material|| 3.5 mm
VIBRAM® XS Grip2
|Footbed Lining||not provided by the brand|
When it comes to climbing style, these technical beasts are a one trick pony. High performance in the steeps means the Furias do not exactly shine on lower angle terrain where edging and smearing are required. Their hefty price tag also makes them a bit of a commitment, so we would only recommend these to experienced sport climbers who know what they are getting into.
The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s easier to get on. The other big change is the addition of more toe rubber, which makes the Furia S one of the best toe-hookers I’ve worn. The idea that one “toe-hooks” becomes an outdated term since you can actually hook with the entire top-side of your foot.
The Furia S is a very specific tool. This will not be the shoe you wear every day, or warm up in, and I wouldn’t want to waste its rubber in the gym (if gym climbing is your main thing, then you may feel differently and these will probably excel at volume hopping). If you climb regularly anywhere with steep rock and small, smeary footholds, these shoes will shine and you should consider add them to your kit.
Overall, the Furia S is a welcomed upgrade to an already great shoe. The Furia S can be described as a sensitive and powerful shoe that can handle massive variation in terrain. The power of its toe box is one of its defining features and makes it a go to shoe for any occasion. If we had to find a weakness in the Fura S, it would again be the heel cup of the shoe. Compared to the previous model, the heel cup design has improved greatly but with the lack of a ‘cup’, the heel of the Furia S is somewhat difficult to get used to and seems to lack structure.
The single z-shaped Velcro strap system locked in the fit fairly well, but I wasn’t able to secure it as tightly as with the Furia’s double-strap closures, and experienced a slight amount of “bagging” in the instep/mid-foot area. (My foot shape is medium width and volume, with a high-instep and arch.)
The Scarpa Furia S performs exceptionally well on overhung boulders or routes, as well as in competition settings. The Furia S’ malleable and sensitive sole make it a great option for advanced climbers looking for a shoe that will give them a confidence boost on slippery or tensiony feet. The Furia S does require stronger toes / foot muscles than stiffer shoes do, and therefore isn’t a great choice for beginners. I also wouldn’t recommend the Furia S for technical face climbing, since there are plenty of better (and mostly stiffer) options out there. But if you’re looking for a shoe for technical, overhung climbs, the Furia S just might be the shoe that enables you to climb faster, more confidently, and with more fun.
In recent years Scarpa seem to have hit some sort of magic formula, creating a whole host of rock boots that have swiftly become classics of their genre - the Helix, the Vapour and the Instinct being three particularly notable examples. This formula doesn't actually occur by magic though, it is a result of gettng the right fit, the right design, the right features and then melding them into a single package that feels, well, right.