Aleon
Description
Onsight or redpoint, send your latest objective in these climbing shoes. Designed with input from climbing legend Fred Nicole, these medium-stiff shoes are built for bouldering and sport routes. They feature a moderate downturn for precise edging and enhanced control. The soft foot-hugging upper delivers a sock-like fit for enhanced sensitivity on tough holds. Engineered fit - adidas Primeknit upper wraps the foot with an engineered fit for targeted support that enhances movement. High-friction rubber outsole - Stealth® C4 rubber outsole for unbeatable grip and unparalleled edging power.
- Regular fit
- Hook-and-loop closure
- Medium-stiff midsole
- Concave toe box for steep climbing
Retail price
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Weight | 420 g Single : 210 g / 7.4 oz |
Closure Type | 2 Velcro closures |
Gender | Unisex |
Volume | Average |
Sizing Information |
US sizes : 3.5-13 Five-Ten-Shoe-Size-Chart.jpg |
Best Use (Highest Performance) |
Sport / Face Bouldering Over-hanging |
Asymmetry | Aggressive |
Tongue Details | not provided by the brand |
Last Details | Shape: Downturned (performance) Construction: not provided by the brand not provided by the brand |
Upper Material | not provided by the brand Adidas Primeknit textile |
Midsole Material | not provided by the brand |
Sole Material | not provided by the brand
Stealth® C4 rubber
Rand: not provided by the brand |
Footbed Lining | Textile lining |
No reviews yet.
The initial fit of the heel was an early concern, as my heel didn’t fall super snug into the bottom of the shoe. That sensation did change a bit after the shoe wore in, but the feeling that the heelcup is a tad shallow remains. Though I have to say, I purposely tried to get the shoe to pop off my heel on multiple occasions by trying aggressive heelhooks, but I wasn’t able to succeed. A thick band of rubber at the back of your heel, however, pays off with precision, as you can dial it in to whatever your heel desires.
With considerable marketing hype and an Editors' Choice award from Climbing Magazine, we initially had high hopes for the FiveTen Aleon. Those hopes were dashed the moment we tried a pair on. The quality of the Aleon's feels sub-par and that's supported by a considerable set of online customer complaints. Aside from their performance in pockets, we were unimpressed in all other areas. If you're a huge fan of single strap bouldering shoes, they might be worth considering. Otherwise, their astronomical price simply doesn't seem worth it.
These shoes are designed for steep sport climbing and bouldering and that’s what they do best. Five Ten is known for a narrower toe box, but the Aleon’s have a wider toe box that accommodates users with wide feet. Due to the tight fit, they hold up well when heel hooking, and also perform very well on the smallest edges.
Flossing into pockets and pressing against the limestone colonettes of Cayman Brac was tough in the island’s heat and humidity, which made my feet swell into small canoes. However, the light (15oz for M’s size 9), fleet Aleons still fit well. The shoe’s sculpted toebox provided mad power and precision for toeing in and thin edging, without the shoe needing a radical downturn, and the microfiber upper—with its breathable Primeknit closure—molded to my foot well. Bouldering guru Fred Nicole designed these semi-stiff shoes with a split rand: This two-part rand pulls in the shoe at the arch, creating a better fit without the need to size aggressively. With a combo of comfort and performance, these shoes became a favorite on the trip, and have since become a go-to at the boulders.