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Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe
  • Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe
  • Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe
  • Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe
  • Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe
  • Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe
  • Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe
  • Evolv Phantom Climbing Shoe

Phantom

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.3 avg )

Description

The Phantom is the pinnacle shoe in our lineup, designed in-house by our R&D team in collaboration with Daniel Woods and additional feedback from Paul Robinson, two of the most prolific boulderers in the world.

  • DARK SPINE S - For structure and sensitivity.
  • AVT PLASTIC MIDSOLE - For sensitivity and support.
  • TRAX® SAS - Best friction plus maximum durability.
  • COMPRESSION CLOSURE SYSTEM (CCS) - 6-point single-pull closure for superb fit.
  • MOLDED VTR - Our Variable Thickness Rand (VTR) system puts thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots around the foot as well as thicker rubber for increased longevity in the high wear zones near the toe for durability and performance.
  • Vegan: Yes

Retail price

US$ 209.00

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Weight 510 g

Size 9 (US)  single: 255 g / 9 oz
Size 9 (US) pair: 510 g / 18 oz
(we converted ounces to grams)
Closure Type Zig Zag strap 1 Velcro closure
Gender Unisex
Volume ­
Sizing Information US sizes : 5-13.5, including half sizes
­ Image icon Evolv-Shoe-Size-Chart.jpg
Image icon Evolv-Shoe-Fit-Chart.jpg
Best Use (Highest Performance) Trad / Crack
Sport / Face
Over-hanging
Asymmetry Aggressive
Tongue Details not provided by the brand
Last Details Shape: Downturned (performance)
Construction: not provided by the brand
not provided by the brand
Upper Material not provided by the brand  SYNTHRATEK VX
Midsole Material 1.6 mm  AVT & TPS RUBBER
Sole Material 4.2 mm  TRAX® SAS
Rand: VTR rand (thicker front toe area)
Footbed Lining

SYNTHETIC

Trax® Rubber Technology

Trax® Rubber

TRAX XT® high friction rubber is formulated to be the highest performing rubber on the market. TRAX-XT®has a perfect balance of high friction and edging power on different types of rock and plastic holds while performing consistently over a wide range of temperatures.
Other Shoe Versions male female
AVG RATING
5.01
( 5 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Absolute Weapons For Hard Steep Climbing

Pros
Great Amount of Rubber Surface on Shoe
Closure System Has a Huge Amount of Minute Adjustment
Magnificent Shoe for Small Feet on Overhang
Amazingly Comfortable For Aggressive Shoes
Cons
Looses Sensitivity in Construction
Closure System Loops Wear Easily (Hasn't broken yet though)
TRAX SAS Rubber Has Great Durability But You Loose Some Friction
Not Amazing at Anything Less Than Vertical
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Disclaimer
I got these shoes on pro-deal discount & I am a boulder bro and worship Daniel Woods.

LOVE these shoes.

LOVE these shoes.

I first tried a friend's pair and was abolutely blown away by their ability to generate power on small overhung feet, and those were 1.5 US sizes above what I use now! I've used these shoes almost exclusively outdoors on hard boulder and sport projects and have fallen in love with their performance. 

Overall Performance

These were developed for hard, steep outdoor climbing, and they most definitely reflect that. They give you the upmost confidence in tiny feet on more than vertical climbing, while the liberal rubber placement will enable a wide variety of heel and toehooks in atypical positions. The biggest advantage I can see in these shoes is their ability to generate off of small feet. 

The Phantom's construction lacks some sensitivity all-round, but this gives you the support you need to fully utilize overhung feet. These shoes have struck an excellent balance between sensitivity and stiffness. The only caveat I can think of is this might take away some confidence in flash attempts, as this takes away from your ability to intuit the nuance of footholds on the fly. This stiffness combined with Evolv's TRAX SAS rubber subtracts from these shoe's smearing ability, but I don't see that as a major issue with the shoe's intended use case (this will also give the shoes a longer lifespan). 

Design Intention

These shoes were designed in collaboration with Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson, hence they are made for hard overhung climbing with emphasis on outdoor projecting. These are not optimal for anything less than vertical - they will work, but it will be less than stellar. I've also found these shoes to not perform amazing on more modern style indoor bouldering, as they lack the smearing capibilites and sensitivity you see in most indoor oriented shoes nowadays. That said, these shoe will still crush board climbing and more "old school" style problems. The majority of complaints I see about these shoes stem from people not understanding their designed specialization. 

Fit

These shoes have a great amount adjustability due to their new closure system, but I suspect these shoes were designed with slight preference to wider/higher volume feet. That said, I have a pretty median foot volume, maybe with a slight leaning towards lower volume, and they still work great. The heel feels great for me too, but that's very subjective. These shoes don't feature the "love bump" seen in the Shamans, but the NEOFLEX knuckle box gives a huge amount of comfort for how aggresive these shoes are. It's hard to find these shoe in-person to try on for sizing - I'd recommend talking to someone at Evolv's customer service as they're super helpful with sizing in comparison to other shoes you wear. 

Closure System

I've seen a handful of people have problems with the Phantom's atypical closure system. I have not had a single issue with this, and I am honestly pretty happy with it. I haven't had any problems with the velcro coming undone, and I find the interior placement of the strap to be particularly nice when placing high-contact toe hooks that utilize the exterior of your foot. 

Bottom Line

These shoes are highly specialized in their design, so I would not recommend them if you plan on these being the exclusive shoes you wear. That said, if you are looking for a new pair of shoes to push your limits projecting outdoors or on the spraywall, get these shoes. 

Rating
4.02
( 4 avg )

Use these if the problem is steep

Pros
Comfy to wear when standing round
Decent at toehooking
Decent fit
Best shoe for steep limestone
Feet won’t get cold in them compared with Scarpa Instincts make your instantly frozen, toes stay alive in these.
Cons
Strap is on the instep of the shoe. Such an oversight. Gets in the way and comes loose when heel hooking and dragging across the rock. Very strange design
No sensitivity at all
Heel shape is not as good as the agro.
Awful at smearing. Great on steep terrain but sketchy when topping it on a slab...
Velcro tab is huge! To get a good fit means the tab only connects a little bit with a massive overhang that just allows the shoe to come undone easy as it just gets in the way,
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Disclaimer
Live in UK. These shoes are at home on limestone and granite however a lot of uk climbing is gritstone (barely ever overhanging) and this is where I primarily climb.

Ok shoe. Not worth the massive price tag. Very poor at smearing, poor Velcro strap design (why on the instep? Strap comes loose easily) no sensitivity, different fit to the agro. However on steep limestone or granite these are 100% best shoes available!

Feet will never pop off a hold due to the downturned nature of the shoes! Best there is! They are comfy out the box and in winter your toes won't freeze which is a massive benefit. Overall 7.5 out of 10

Phantom Shoe Review
Phantom Shoe
Phantom Shoe Review