Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Peenut 5
Description
Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than symmetrical nuts. Their large surface area helps dissipate forces, making them suitable for protecting fragile rock.
As climbs become harder, the need to make the most of all available protection increases. Micro protection lets you protect cracks which normal sized pieces would not fit. Having these wires on your rack gives you more options.
Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack.
These nuts have large surface areas that spread forces in a fall across a greater area, increasing placement security in fragile rock. They increase security on routes where fragile rock may be encountered.
These nuts have large surface areas that spread forces in a fall across a greater area, increasing placement security in fragile rock. They increase security on routes where fragile rock may be encountered.
Passive protection works by jamming in constrictions to prevent falls. It is suitable for use in all conditions. Unlike active protection such as cams, passive protection can be used in wet or icy cracks, where friction is reduced.
Retail price
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Weight (grams / ounces) | 18 g / 0.63 oz |
Size | 5 micro nut (full strength) |
Colors as a Nut Set | Multi |
Strength (kilonewtons) | 8 kN |
Color | Silver |
Offset | Yes offset |
Range (inches / millimeters) | 0.36 in - 0.52 in 9.20 mm - 13.90 mm |
Material(s) | Main Material: Aluminum |
Certification | |
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Peenuts are a good complement to a rack of any type, especially those of other DMM or Wild Country nuts where Peenuts will follow the same color scheme. They are best for smaller cracks if you aren't willing to give up the durability of aluminum. They fit pin scars and shallow flares well for aid climbers but they should not replace a set of brass nuts.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).