The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain.
The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain.
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Device Type |
Brake Assist - Tube |
| Weight (g) |
121 g |
| Belay Brake Assist |
Yes |
| Rope Options | 1 or 2 ropes |
| Guide Mode |
Up to 2 followers |
| Teeth |
No |
| Rope Range (mm) | 7.1 mm
- 10.0 mm
see second image photo for a rope diameter chart |
| Certification |
CE |
Previously this device had different rope ranges listed (and you'll hear different rope ranges on Edelrid's and WeighMyRack's videos about this product). The rope ranges written previously were safe to use, but these more recent numbers will ensure better handling.
Just about every climber who climbs outside eventually needs to own a tube style device, either for rappelling or cleaning. Which one climbers own is driven by things like ease of use, cheapness and availability. For that there is little reason to step past the brand that every climber knows, Black Diamond. Their hold on the North American climbing market can be at least partially drawn to the ATC line, and as it has moved past household name to the likes of the Kleenex of belay devices, we’re guessing that it will be on this list in some form for a long time to come.
A very cool device that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed playing with. I especially love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling and often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up.
The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what makes it an easy choice for our Top Pick award for Multi-Pitching.
The first few times while switching modes, I had to pay close attention to the diagrams on the device. Also, feeding rope while in brake-assist mode was initially clunky, and my partner rained vulgarities upon me after I short-roped her at the crux of a Boulder Canyon sport route on day one of testing. However, even though the Giga Jul has the longest learning curve of any tube-style device I’ve used, once I was up to speed I loved its multi-functionality. (Watch the online demo videos and test it in the gym before more serious missions.) I also dug the thoughtful hybrid construction: The main body is lightweight aluminum, while the parts that see the heaviest use are robust steel. Compatible with ropes from 7.1 to 10 mm, the Giga Jul is an awesome belay/rappel device—it’s by far the most versatile one in my quiver and never leaves my harness.
The Giga Jul is a brilliant and versatile device. It is slightly complex to use initially but you quickly get used to it with a little practice. The different modes give you plenty of options depending on the circumstances and this could be the one-stop-shop single belay device for all types of climbing you do from sport, through multi-pitch trad, to alpine. It is great to see Edelrid coming up with new devices that are not just fancy gizmos with a new feature or two that you may or may not appreciate, but real innovative developments that actually make climbing easier and safer.
In conclusion, the Edelrid Giga Jul is an excellent belay device. It does take some practice to use it correctly and it’s definitely worth the time investment to do so. I like the flexibility and extra security it offers over standard guide plates and for bolted style multi pitch routes it is outstanding. It is heavy but I’m happy to trade that for the flexibility it offers. I’d say it is more suited to those climbers with some experience and for mountain professionals it is great addition to the toolbox. Is it worth the extra price and weight over say, a Petzl Reverso – I’d say yes and it’s certainly better than trying to use a GriGri in guide mode! It’s by far the best of the Jul belay devices I’ve tested here on CGR.
