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Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device
  • Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device
  • Edelrid Giga Jul Rope Size Chart

Giga Jul

Rating

My vote: None ( 4.9 avg )

Description

The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain.

  • Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner
  • Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a Station as a doubled rope

Retail price

US$ 59.95

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Device Type

Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Tube belay device example

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Figure 8 belay device example

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Brake Assist belay device example

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Plate belay device example

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Descender example
Brake Assist - Tube
Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

120 g
Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

Yes
Rope Options 1 or 2 ropes
Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A double rope tubular device guide mode example

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A single rope mechanical brake assist guide mode example

Where guide mode is used

  • multi-pitch sport or trad climbs
  • single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

http://www.climbing.com/skill/essential-skills-auto-blocking-belay-devices/

Up to 2 followers
Teeth

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

The belay device teeth are shown in the red circle

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

No
Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

7.1 mm  - 10.0 mm ­­
see second image photo for a rope diameter chart
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
CE

Previously this device had different rope ranges listed (and you'll hear different rope ranges on Edelrid's and WeighMyRack's videos about this product). The rope ranges written previously were safe to use, but these more recent numbers will ensure better handling.

AVG RATING
5.52
( 5.5 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Makes all other belay devices obsolete

Pros
Safe
Easy
Rappelable
Cons
None
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Disclaimer
Assisted braking side can be difficult to give slack.

I've used other popular Assisted Braking Devices and this blows all of them out of the water in regards to functionality. Edelrid stepped it up and made the Giga Jul very simple but 100% versatile.

Assisted Mode - you have to pull away from your belay loop to keep the system "open" so if you're sensitive to keeping your brake hand on the rope this may be difficult with a fast climber but with familiarlization can be done. Be prepared to short-rope your climber in the meantime.

Manual Mode- works just as well as any other device.

Rapping- I've used this device in Assisted Mode to rap down and trust 100% to go hands off to work on whatever it is I am; setting up a TR, maintaing bolts or anchors. Rapping in manual mode whether single or double rope is just as easy.

I'd recommend this device to anyone on any skill level.

Rating
5.04
( 5 avg )

The belay device that almost does it all perfectly !

Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

If i could only bring one device on a climb, i choose this one for sure! Double rope rappel, guide mode, assisted braking and more in one single relatively light package. 

It does everything a guide tube style device would do and performs just as good. Use it in assisted braking, and you have an extra level of security when belaying a leader. The one thing i will point out, is make sure you test this device before using it. It is very picky on what carabiner you are using and some carabiner, for example the petzl attache, let's the rope slip all the way through in assisted braking. 

When belaying in assisted braking mode, i feed slack like any other tube style device. When i need to feed alot of rope, it is very easy to slip your thumb in the release hook even with gloves. 

when rappeling in assisted braking, i would still use a third hand backup because it does have a tendency to let the rope slip when fully weighting it. For rappel, i prefer using this in manual mode just like any other tube style device. 

Keep in mind this is NOT a grigri. Like any other device, good belaying technique is required. But in the event that the belayer would let go of the break strand, the device will assist in holding the fall but it is not as solid as the grigri. 
 

 

 

WeighMyRack Gear Review in-depth technical review

Just about every climber who climbs outside eventually needs to own a tube style device, either for rappelling or cleaning. Which one climbers own is driven by things like ease of use, cheapness and availability. For that there is little reason to step past the brand that every climber knows, Black Diamond. Their hold on the North American climbing market can be at least partially drawn to the ATC line, and as it has moved past household name to the likes of the Kleenex of belay devices, we’re guessing that it will be on this list in some form for a long time to come.

Black Sheep Adventure Sports logo no rating given just a review

A very cool device that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed playing with. I especially love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling and often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up.

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4.5/5

The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what makes it an easy choice for our Top Pick award for Multi-Pitching.

Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

The first few times while switching modes, I had to pay close attention to the diagrams on the device. Also, feeding rope while in brake-assist mode was initially clunky, and my partner rained vulgarities upon me after I short-roped her at the crux of a Boulder Canyon sport route on day one of testing. However, even though the Giga Jul has the longest learning curve of any tube-style device I’ve used, once I was up to speed I loved its multi-functionality. (Watch the online demo videos and test it in the gym before more serious missions.) I also dug the thoughtful hybrid construction: The main body is lightweight aluminum, while the parts that see the heaviest use are robust steel. Compatible with ropes from 7.1 to 10 mm, the Giga Jul is an awesome belay/rappel device—it’s by far the most versatile one in my quiver and never leaves my harness.

UK Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

The Giga Jul is a brilliant and versatile device. It is slightly complex to use initially but you quickly get used to it with a little practice. The different modes give you plenty of options depending on the circumstances and this could be the one-stop-shop single belay device for all types of climbing you do from sport, through multi-pitch trad, to alpine. It is great to see Edelrid coming up with new devices that are not just fancy gizmos with a new feature or two that you may or may not appreciate, but real innovative developments that actually make climbing easier and safer.

Climbing Gear Reviews UK rating 5/5

In conclusion, the Edelrid Giga Jul is an excellent belay device. It does take some practice to use it correctly and it’s definitely worth the time investment to do so. I like the flexibility and extra security it offers over standard guide plates and for bolted style multi pitch routes it is outstanding. It is heavy but I’m happy to trade that for the flexibility it offers. I’d say it is more suited to those climbers with some experience and for mountain professionals it is great addition to the toolbox. Is it worth the extra price and weight over say, a Petzl Reverso – I’d say yes and it’s certainly better than trying to use a GriGri in guide mode! It’s by far the best of the Jul belay devices I’ve tested here on CGR.

Details of Giga Jul
Giga Jul Belay Device
Edelrid Giga Jul Review
Giga Jul Review