Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering.
The head turner is the innovative pivot -this patent pending solution shifts the lever arrangement to allow controlled and easily initiated lowering when used in guide/direct mode. Even with a weighty second, the belayer can lower one, both, or either second with total control using the specially shaped biner cavity. Once the top is reached, the Pivot will be a trustworthy abseil partner for the return to the base.
Perfect for alpine, winter, and multi-pitch trad. All of these features are wrapped up in a package weighing only 72g. Classic DMM innovation.
Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering.
The head turner is the innovative pivot -this patent pending solution shifts the lever arrangement to allow controlled and...
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Device Type |
Tube |
| Weight (g) |
72 g |
| Belay Brake Assist |
No |
| Rope Options | 1 or 2 ropes |
| Guide Mode |
Up to 2 followers |
| Teeth |
Yes |
| Rope Range (mm) | 7.3 mm
- 11.0 mm
single: 8.7 - 11 half/twin: 7.3 - 9.2 |
| Certification |
EN |
The DMM Pivot is a good auto-blocking tube device, though it isn't the lightest option, nor is it compatible with the skinniest single ropes on the market. It also incurs a moderate amount of friction when pulling slack through the device in autoblock mode. In our estimation, this device is nothing special, and the pivoting anchor loop is rarely an asset. Still, this is a good belay device that performs in the middle of the pack for auto-blocking belay devices.
Just about every climber who climbs outside eventually needs to own a tube style device, either for rappelling or cleaning. Which one climbers own is driven by things like ease of use, cheapness and availability. For that there is little reason to step past the brand that every climber knows, Black Diamond. Their hold on the North American climbing market can be at least partially drawn to the ATC line, and as it has moved past household name to the likes of the Kleenex of belay devices, we’re guessing that it will be on this list in some form for a long time to come.
Overall I would heartily recommend the Pivot for just about any climbing except perhaps if you belay people working projects a lot, where obviously an assisted braking device is the best choice to hold people resting on the rope regularly. But, even for pure sport climbing, if a mate is going for a redpoint burn on their project and I want to give the perfect belay: quick to pay out for smooth clips, quick to take in excess slack, and confident to be able to catch big falls comfortably it is now the DMM Pivot that I will reach for. DMM do recommend using the Pivot with their newish Rhino HMS krab. I used it with DMM Belay Master HMS and some old Wild Country HMS because those are the krabs I have, but it worked flawlessly with both. The Rhino might be a great krab, but I wouldn’t worry too much about not having one if you do pick the Pivot.
The biggest advantage of the DMM Pivot is the ease of lowering your partner in guide-mode. It takes almost no physical effort to release the load, and you benefit from the added safety of a controlled belay. If you are a guide, or often use guide-mode while bringing up your partner(s), the Pivot is game-changing in time and safety.
Overall, I found the Pivot to be a solid piece of equipment, and until a plaquette style belay/rappel device comes out that is light, requires little effort to belay in guide mode, belays both thin and thick ropes well, releases from an assisted brake with ease, and belays and rappels smoothly, the DMM Pivot will stand as a gold-standard item. Because I have a quiver of belay devices, I have the privilege to choose the right device for my day of climbing. The Pivot has become a regular tool in my guiding and climbing. I specifically choose the Pivot when I am belaying from above using ropes less than 9.2mm in diameter, and when I know rappels will be part of the descent.
Versatile, functional and innovative; the Pivot is a state-of-the-art belay device catering for modern belay techniques with the latest ropes. It excels when belaying both from the waist and directly from the anchor. Perfect for multi-pitch trad, winter and alpine climbing, the Pivot is the ideal companion for your adventures in the vertical realm.
I feel the DMM Pivot is not a gimmick but a great innovation. If you are using a guide plate a lot you are going to notice these changes and if you think about it, if you are lowing something it’s because there is a problem. When there is a problem you want things to run smoothly, the DMM Pivot will really help.
1 of 3 new belay devices for 2015, the DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. No more backup prusiks or other shenanigans to slow you down.
This video goes over the new Belay Devices and Ascenders that were slated to come out in 2015. Including the CAMP Matik, DMM Pivot, Mantis and Grip, along with the Edelrid Jul2. It also covers the new Black Diamond Index ascender and the upgrades to the Petzl Ascension.
Instruction for how to use DMM Belay Devices and warnings in details, with instructional pictures.
