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Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet
  • Black Diamond Capitan Climbing Helmet

Capitan

Rating

no ratings

Description

Engineered to handle the abuse only its namesake big wall can dish out, the Capitan is Black Diamond’s bomber, ultra-durable helmet, featuring added coverage on both the sides and back, while maintaining a sleek, cradle fit for all-day comfort. Featuring a 2-piece ABS shell construction that allows for an optimized fit and dual colorways, the Capitan also boasts a fusion of EPP foam and an EPS foam puck, which meets the proposed UIAA increased side and back protection requirements. The Capitan’s vents provide ample breathability when temps heat up and a low-profile suspension system dials in the fit. The integrated headlamp clips with an elastic keeper on the back secure your light so you can push through the night.

Retail price

US$ 69.95

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Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

If there are differences in weight (due to multiple size or optional accessories) we note those here.

295 g

S/M: 295 g / 10.4 oz
M/L: 325 g / 11.4 oz

Gender

Gender

This is the gender as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

We use the term "Men" and "Unisex" interchangeably, as there is no difference between these types of helmets.

Unisex
Size Range

Size Range

The sizing options of the helmet according to the manufacturer.

21.00 in - 25.00 in

S/M: 53-59 cm / 21-23 in
M/L: 58-63 cm / 23-25 in

Features

Features

Bike Cert (EN 1078)

The EN certification for helmets used for bicycling and skating. The major difference in testing 1078 involves needs for more head coverage and for the helmet to pass a deflection or 'roll-off' test of the impact force.


Brim

Having a brim on a helmet may be inconsequential to some climbers but they make a great additional bit of protection against sun, rain and falling debris like small rocks or verglass.


Multiple Sizes

This is helpful for those with particularly small or large heads because helmets that come in 2 or 3 sizes cover a broader range of head size. Usually these are denoted as size 1 or 2, though some brands have S/M and M/L.


Face Shield Compatible

Face shields are a part of PPE that could be handy when drilling, developing and cleaning particularly dirty remote routes. Usually only used by work at height professionals.


MIPS technology

MIPS or Multidirectional Impact Protection System is a technology designed to reduce the amount of impact force that makes it to the brain. This is accomplished by adding a low friction cap between the liner and the helmet, allowing the shell to deflect around the head rather than transfer the forces from impact directly to the wearer.  Many bicycle helmets include this feature and it is starting to be applied to sports like skiing, motorcycling and climbing. Many MIPS helmets are also EN1078 compliant.


Ponytail Cutout

So far these are only found in "women's" helmets. It's a cutout / notch area that accommodates a low hanging ponytail hairstyle.


RECCO® reflector

These are used in locating someone missing or buried in an avalanche and are becoming more common in climbing gear due to the increased popularity of ski mountaineering. Though they are more often sold as something to add onto the helmet than being built into one, some manufacturers have begun to build them in.


Ski Cert (EN 1077)

The EN certification for helmets used for climbing and skiing. This test is simpler than the EN/UIAA one performed for helmets in general, but increases the amount of force that a helmet must endure. Likely this to simulate the faster speeds involved with downhill skiing impacts versus rockfall or climber accidents. This cert becoming more common in helmets as SkiMo popularity increases and more climbers are adding backcountry skiing to their mountaineering repertoire.

Multiple Sizes
Quick Adjust

Quick Adjust

Quick Adjust refers to the straps of the helmet. Do you want the ability to ability to "quickly" adjust the fit. This could be a dial, or other plastic pieces.

Really, most climbers don't need to change the fit of the helmet often, unless you're climbing with and without hats, or you have big hair that flattens and then requires tightening after climbing for awhile.

No
Vents

Vents

Refers to openings in the helmet body to allow air flow. Commonly found in most helmets these days, but often more so in foam and hybrid foam helmets than traditional hardshell polycarbonate shells.


Learn More

Click here to read more on helmet construction
Yes
Headlamp Compatable

Headlamp Compatible

Many helmets include hooks or clips for holding a standard headlamp in place, which is quite useful for the caver or alpinist. Ask any climber who has been benighted and they’ll tell you just how useful this feature can be.

Yes
Face Shield Compatable

Face Shield Compatible

Face shields are a part of PPE that could be handy when drilling, developing and cleaning particularly dirty remote routes. This feature isn't very common in climbing helmets and usually only used by work at height professionals.

No
Certification CE, EN, UIAA

No reviews yet.

UK Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

Helmets have come a long way in recent years. What was formerly considered lightweight is now midweight, and the current lightweight ones have got even lighter. The latest iteration of the Vapor weighs just 155g, making it one of the lightest climbing helmets ever made. For someone that started climbing wearing a 455g Ecrin Roc, this is fairly mind-blowing, but it does come with some caveats, with the main one being "be careful", because great though they are, the modern breed of lightweights are comparatively fragile.

Climbing Gear Reviews UK rating 5/5

I’ve used the Capitan for trad, summer alpine a Scottish winter and been thoroughly impressed throughout. I am the proud owner of three high end helmets that are all lighter than the Capitan yet if truth be told I didn’t notice much real difference in my somewhat ‘average’ use. In Chamonix the temperatures were hitting the mid 30s, and everyone was sticking to rock routes, the Capitan felt totally comfortable. I wasn’t yearning for a lighter or more ventilated helmet, it remained perfectly secure and like all the best kit did its job unnoticed. Likewise in Scotland I appreciated the robust build that let me stuff it into the top of the sac without being overly concerned. On the hill the cradle gave sufficient adjustment to work over a mid-layer hood or beanie and remained secure throughout the usual thrutchings. At the end of the day it was easily stuffed back into the sac with the cradle neatly folding inside the helmet.

Details of Capitan Helmet
Black Diamond Capitan Helmets
Black Diamond Capitan Helmets

The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.