A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
High tech harness well suited for Big Walls, long Ice Routes and hanging belays.
* Fully Padded Big Wall Harness.
* New SAFELOCK Double Pass Buckle Closure System adds security and eliminates webbing creep in buckle system during hauling.
* 5” Swami belt lined with
Polar-plus laminated 3/8” foam. Tapered anatomical design for flexibility and comfort. Swami is secured using 4000 lb. rated
double pass buckles. Waist belt adjusts 4-6“ to accommodate extra clothing for cold weather climbs.
* Racking system uses large diameter sheathed tubing for easy clipping. Built in hammer holster. 3500 lb. rated haul loop.
* Shield leg loops are fully adjustable to accommodate a variety of sizing requirements .
* Leg Loops are constructed of brushed Polyester webbing filled with 3/16” HYPURCEL foam.
* This new type of foam padding offers the best compression resistance and is guaranteed to never flatten out even after extended use. Leg loops are 2 3/4” wide for small size and 3 1/4” wide for M-XXL harnesses. The “Shield” offers a new standard in big wall harness comfort and versatility.
In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 652 g|
M : 652 g / 23 oz
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|6 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Manual Doubleback|
|Leg Buckle Type||Manual Doubleback|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
S (will fit the upper range of XS)
This is the burliest harness we know of. When you look at Ammon McNeely's Yates Shield harness after over a hundred days of big wall punishment, it is still going strong. This is because the webbing is two inches wide when many manufacturers use one-inch. Everything that can be reinforced is. The harness is also nearly as comfy as they come. We think the Metolius Waldo is a little more comfortable, but not by much. With two waist buckles, you can always get the belay loop centered.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.