Sizing Chart for all Mens, Womens, and Childrens Harnesses
The alpine version of the PRISMA, specially for alpine excursions and ski mountaineering—ultra light and with a compact pack size yet amazingly comfortable. The thin gear loops are sheathed and stay in shape without being bulky. Additional gear loops and attachment options for ice screw clips offer plenty of opportunity to organize gear. Thanks to the combination of Dyneema® on the inside and polyamide on the outside, the innovative tie-in loop is far lighter and more flexible.
- Light frame construction: minimal weight and good air permeability thanks to the continuous edge bindings made from Dyneema®, which proportionately distribute the load
- Slide Block buckle on the waist belt can be fully opened to make the harness easier to put on when wearing skis or crampons
- Adjustable leg loops with two settings
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 175 g|
S: 161 g / 5.6 oz
M: 170 g / 5.9 oz
L: 175 g / 6.1 oz
(weight converted from grams to ounces)
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|6 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||Clip|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
S (will fit the upper range of XS)
Waist : 71-86 cm / 28-33.9 in
Legs : 51-57 cm / 20.1-22.4 in
Waist : 78-93 cm / 30.7-36.6 in
Legs : 59-65 cm / 23.2-25.6 in
L (will fit most XL and the lower range of XXL)
Waist : 85-100 cm / 33.5-39.4 in
Legs : 63-69 cm / 24.8-27.2 in
(we converted centimeters to inches)
A few years back I reviewed the ultra light Loopo Lite harness from Edelrid – a specialist harness aimed at ski mountaineering and high altitude mountaineering. Great though the Loopo Lite was, its range of applications was pretty narrow, you certainly wouldn’t use it at your local crag or a multi-pitch rock route in the Lakes. The Prisma Guide has that similar high tech Dyneema® look (Dyneema® makes up the edge binding) and a very low weight. Here though the similarities end. For alpine climbers I’d say there was little reason to consider the Loopo Lite now that the Prisma Guide has arrived.
How to use Edelrid Harness, safety, lifespan, storage and care with instructional pictures.
A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.