Not cheap but maybe worth having one around.
by Tony M on 04/7/2020Pros
Great feel
Cons
Expensive
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Dyon
Description
- New patented KeyWire design combines the benefits of wire gate action with a keylocking closure
- Patented SphereLock closure minimizes play between the gate and nose for enhanced safety and performance
- Curved I-Beam construction on the spine creates a very high open gate strength
- 8 colors coordinate with the most popular cam colors
Another step forward in carabiner evolution, the Dyon uses a proprietary two-part gate to combine the benefits of smooth wire gate action with a keylocking closure. This unique combination gives it both high levels of performance and safety. The curved I-Beam construction on the spine keeps the weight to a minimum while providing a high level of rigidity and an incredible open gate strength of 11 kN. The patented SphereLock closure minimizes play between the gate and nose for enhanced safety and performance. Available in 8 colors to coordinate with the most popular cam colors.
- New patented KeyWire design combines the benefits of wire gate action with a keylocking closure
- Patented SphereLock closure minimizes play between the gate and nose for enhanced safety and performance
- Curved I-Beam construction on the spine creates a very high open gate strength
- 8 colors coordinate with the most popular cam colors
Another step forward in carabiner evolution, the Dyon uses a proprietary two-part gate to combine the...
read moreRetail price
US$ 14.95
When you click a link below and then checkout online, no matter what you buy (climbing gear or not), we get a small commission that helps us keep this site up-to-date. Thanks!
Weight (g) |
33 g |
| Shape |
D / Offset D |
| Locking |
No |
| Straight or Bent |
Straight |
| Full Size |
Yes |
| Keylock |
Yes |
| Solid or Wire |
Wire |
| Gate Opening |
26 mm |
| Number of Colors |
8 |
| Lock Indicator |
No |
| Strengths (kN) |  21 kN  11 kN  7 kN |
Narrow nose
by Benjamin VanderStouw on 03/29/2020Pros
Narrow nose
Lightweight
Cons
Expensive
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times
The Dyon is an excellent carabiner. The operation is smooth throughout applications and will be appreciated by the leader just as much as the follower because of its unique snag free keylock gate and smooth nose. We put a significant amount of time into finding a problem with this carabiner but came up mostly empty-handed. If we wanted to be really picky, we would point out the 3kn of strength lost by putting a concave bend in the spine, but 21kn is strong. Yes there is a steep cost to get into the Dyon game but once you're in there, you are sure to have a good time.
In use, the Dyon is a pleasure to handle, with or without gloves. The gate is large enough to easily open with cold fingers encased in thick gloves, and the biner is a cinch to clip to screws, bolts or gear loops. I’ve not had it come even close to freezing up, despite the whole draw becoming encased in ice.
The Dyon overall has a great ergonomic feel to it. The gate is stiff and smooth (much stiffer than the Photon Wiregate) The size is nice, and the biner weighs a fairly impressive 33g (for comparison, the CAMP Photon weighs 29g and the Black Diamond Hotwire weighs 43g.) I loved the size of the nose—it felt great when unclipping it from bolts.
Dyon Carabiner
Dyon Dyneema Express Quickdraw
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of UIAA-121 and EN-12275 standards for connectors (the UIAA's fancy word for carabiners).