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Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Device

Mega Jul Sport

Rating

My vote: None ( 4.4 avg )

Description

The sport climbing version of our award-winning Mega Jul Designed with a specific geometry for sport climbing for slicker belaying, including with thicker ropes.

• For belaying a leader or abseiling
• Robust stainless steel construction with minimal weight due to optimal design and intelligent use of materials
• High braking performance assists belayer with leader falls
• Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the “open” position with the thumb

Retail price

US$ 34.95
Device Type Tube Brake Assist - Mechanical
Weight (g) 88 g
Belay Brake Assist Yes
Rope Options 1 or 2 ropes
Guide Mode No guide mode
Teeth No
Rope Range (mm) 7.8 mm  - 11.0 mm ­­­
Certification EN
AVG RATING
4.02
( 4 avg )
Rating
4.02
( 4 avg )

Took a while to master lowering

Pros
Feeds slack well
Catches beautifully
Cons
Took me six sessions to lower a climber smoothly
My first one broke at the plastic thumb lift-tab. The standard MegaJul and the Jul2 are both stronger at this point.
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch
Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. The Mega Jul Sport takes double ropes, making it more versatile for rappelling and belaying with half or twin ropes. The geometry of the device—how the rope runs over the brake side—translates to the belayer needing to apply little force to catch a fall. Lowering was not intuitive, however, as testers had to reorient their hands and tilt the device back. A second mode for lowering involved releasing the device via the thumb loop, but testers preferred the tilt method as they found it easier to control the speed of the descent. Rappelling can also be done in multiple configurations—either with the device turned around to perform like a traditional tuber or in locking mode, though the locking configuration was not as smooth.

2017 Belay Devices
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