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Reviews

Ceros Locksafe

DMM

DMM Ceros Locksafe Carabiner

Burly and functional belay carabiner

Pros

Easy to load. The wire gate retainer clips in a downward direction

It's burly!...

The rhino "horn" stops grigris cross loading...

Strong spring tension

Cons

It's burly, so not the lightest belay carabiner around...

Familiarity

I’ve used it a few of times

It's a solid and really well designed belay carabiner. It sits well in your hand and loads easily. The spring tension of the gate and the locking collar is pretty firm so it inspires confidence. I'm liking it more for single pitch though, as it's at the burly end of the weight spectrum.

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ATC Pilot

Black Diamond

Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device

Easy to use, easy to learn

Pros

Lowers smoothly

Catches well

Solid, clean design

Cons

Occasionally binds up if you're a little careless feeding slack...

Familiarity

I’ve used it a bunch

Like it a lot. Overall it's easier and more ergonomic to use than the MegaJul Sport.

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Mega Jul Sport

Edelrid

Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Device

Took a while to master lowering

Pros

Feeds slack well

Catches beautifully

Cons

Took me six sessions to lower a climber smoothly

My first one broke at the plastic thumb lift-tab. The standard MegaJul and the Jul2 are both stronger at this point.

Familiarity

I’ve used it a bunch

Belays really well, catches even better, but takes a long time to find the sweet spot for lowering.

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