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Reviews

Ceros Locksafe

DMM
DMM Ceros Locksafe Carabiner
5.04

Burly and functional belay carabiner

Pros
Easy to load. The wire gate retainer clips in a downward direction
It's burly!...
The rhino "horn" stops grigris cross loading...
Strong spring tension
Cons
It's burly, so not the lightest belay carabiner around...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

It's a solid and really well designed belay carabiner. It sits well in your hand and loads easily. The spring tension of the gate and the locking collar is pretty firm so it inspires confidence. I'm liking it more for single pitch though, as it's at the burly end of the weight spectrum.

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ATC Pilot

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device
5.04

Easy to use, easy to learn

Pros
Lowers smoothly
Catches well
Solid, clean design
Cons
Occasionally binds up if you're a little careless feeding slack...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Like it a lot. Overall it's easier and more ergonomic to use than the MegaJul Sport.

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Mega Jul Sport

Edelrid
Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Device
4.02

Took a while to master lowering

Pros
Feeds slack well
Catches beautifully
Cons
Took me six sessions to lower a climber smoothly
My first one broke at the plastic thumb lift-tab. The standard MegaJul and the Jul2 are both stronger at this point.
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Belays really well, catches even better, but takes a long time to find the sweet spot for lowering.

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