round button
Leave a message
×

Error message

You must have JavaScript and cookies enabled in your browser to flag content.
Petzl Reverso 4
  • Petzl Reverso 4
  • Petzl Reverso 4
  • Petzl Reverso 4
  • Petzl Reverso 4
  • Petzl Reverso 4

Reverso 4

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.1 avg )

Description

Ultra-light multipurpose belay/rappel device with braking adapted to different rope diameters and suppleness; Reverso mode

This belay/rappel device is lightweight and easy to use. V-shaped friction channels, with asymmetrical side grooves, adapt the rope friction for better control (braking adapted to half, twin and single dynamic ropes). Reverso mode for belaying one or two seconds.

Description

Ultra-light design:
- minimalist construction
- hot-forged aluminum
A single device for all rope types:
- effective braking on half and twin ropes (7.5 mm or greater diameter)
- effective braking on single ropes (8.9 mm or greater diameter)
- can belay the leader, one or two seconds and can be used for rappelling
- independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode
- for swapping leads (team of 2), offers a quick transition from Reverso mode to belaying the leader
The V-shaped friction channels:
- give greater braking power on thin ropes
- adapt the braking power on larger diameter ropes
- increase the braking pressure on the ropes in Reverso mode
The asymmetric side grooves:
- increase the braking power for leader or top-rope falls, or while rappelling
- improve rope glide through device when taking up slack
Hole for releasing the device under load: allows a loaded device in Reverso mode to be easily and gradually released with only a carabiner
Rope friendly, facilitates rope maneuvers and rappelling:
- will not twist the ropes regardless of the mode used
- separates the two strands of rope when belaying and rappelling on two ropes
Intuitive use:
- Reverso mode aluminum attachment hole is easy to identify
- keeper cable keeps the device from moving up the rope when belaying and reduces risk of losing the device
- usage diagrams (standard belay and Reverso modes) engraved on device
Use with symmetrical locking carabiners (Am’D or WILLIAM) to maximize efficiency

Ultra-light multipurpose belay/rappel device with braking adapted to different rope diameters and suppleness; Reverso mode

This belay/rappel device is lightweight and easy to use. V-shaped friction channels, with asymmetrical side grooves, adapt the rope friction for better control (braking adapted to half, twin and single dynamic ropes). Reverso mode for belaying one or two seconds.

Description

Ultra-light design:
- minimalist construction
- hot-forged... 

read more

Retail price

US$ 29.95
Device Type Tube
Weight (g) 59 g
Belay Brake Assist No
Rope Options 1 or 2 ropes
Guide Mode Up to 2 followers
Teeth Yes
Rope Range (mm) 7.5 mm  - 11.0 mm ­­
single: 8.9 - 11.0 half: 8.0 - 11.0 twin: 7.5 - 11.0
Certification UIAA
AVG RATING
5.04
( 5 avg )
Rating
5.04
( 5 avg )

Gold Standard that also comes in green

Pros
Lightweight
Smooth belay
Smooth lower
Fairly smooth belay in “guide mode” from an anchor
Versatile as it gets
Cons
Not as durable as the BD ATC Guide device
Doesn’t have the assisted braking like the Mega Jul
Lowering in guide mode takes practice and time
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch
Disclaimer
I get most of my belay devices for free, but I paid full price for the Reverso.
Next Adventure Gear Review rating 8/10

One small feature that led me to choose the Reverso over the ATC Guide is the orientation of the guide mode loop. The loop is oriented horizontally in relation to the device (perpendicular to the tubes), meaning that when it’s clipped into an anchor, the tubes are naturally oriented in the direction of pull. This is not the cause on the Guide, which has a loop oriented vertically.

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4/5

For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. However, when we actually compared the two side-by-side with the same ropes in a controlled environment (especially in auto-block mode) the ATC Guide came out on top. The difference is small though, so if you've already got a Reverso and like it, don't feel any pressure to switch.

Ragged Mountain Guides Gear Review no rating given just a review

The Reverso 4 is a great tool for top rope belaying and for belaying a leader as well. This winter I caught a couple of falls with it. The skinny ropes were iced up, and it worked admirably. I’m not sure how well a device with larger rope slots like the BD ATC Guide would have worked in this particular situation. Since we all seem to be climbing with skinnier ropes these days, I like the idea of smaller rope slots, and Petzl’s patented Progressive Rope Control.
Overall, I’m impressed with the light weight, and ease of use. Lowering in the plaquette function is pretty easy with a carabiner in the release hole. I’m so sold on it, I can’t imagine ever going back to a different device. Petzl doesn’t redesign things often, but when they do, they do it with intention.

All the Features of Reverso 4 Belay device

This video shows all the features of Reverso 4 belay device, with comparisons to old Reverso.

Petzl Reverso 4 Review

A well discussed review of Reverso 4.

Reverso 4 Review by Outdoor Gear Lab
Reverso 4 Belay Device
Instruction for Using Reverso Belay Device

This video is really long but informative, it shows all the instruction for using Reverso belay device in details.

Watch a tour of Petzl's facilities as they explain all the testing involved

Warning: This video is dubbed in English. If you're getting antsy, skip to section 7:40-8:15 for one of the most interesting parts, where they show a hardware specific camera inspection.

a