Reverso 4
Description
Ultra-light multipurpose belay/rappel device with braking adapted to different rope diameters and suppleness; Reverso mode
This belay/rappel device is lightweight and easy to use. V-shaped friction channels, with asymmetrical side grooves, adapt the rope friction for better control (braking adapted to half, twin and single dynamic ropes). Reverso mode for belaying one or two seconds.
Description
Ultra-light design:
- minimalist construction
- hot-forged aluminum
A single device for all rope types:
- effective braking on half and twin ropes (7.5 mm or greater diameter)
- effective braking on single ropes (8.9 mm or greater diameter)
- can belay the leader, one or two seconds and can be used for rappelling
- independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode
- for swapping leads (team of 2), offers a quick transition from Reverso mode to belaying the leader
The V-shaped friction channels:
- give greater braking power on thin ropes
- adapt the braking power on larger diameter ropes
- increase the braking pressure on the ropes in Reverso mode
The asymmetric side grooves:
- increase the braking power for leader or top-rope falls, or while rappelling
- improve rope glide through device when taking up slack
Hole for releasing the device under load: allows a loaded device in Reverso mode to be easily and gradually released with only a carabiner
Rope friendly, facilitates rope maneuvers and rappelling:
- will not twist the ropes regardless of the mode used
- separates the two strands of rope when belaying and rappelling on two ropes
Intuitive use:
- Reverso mode aluminum attachment hole is easy to identify
- keeper cable keeps the device from moving up the rope when belaying and reduces risk of losing the device
- usage diagrams (standard belay and Reverso modes) engraved on device
Use with symmetrical locking carabiners (Am’D or WILLIAM) to maximize efficiency
Ultra-light multipurpose belay/rappel device with braking adapted to different rope diameters and suppleness; Reverso mode
This belay/rappel device is lightweight and easy to use. V-shaped friction channels, with asymmetrical side grooves, adapt the rope friction for better control (braking adapted to half, twin and single dynamic ropes). Reverso mode for belaying one or two seconds.
Description
Ultra-light design:
- minimalist construction
- hot-forged...
Retail price
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Device Type![]() ![]() |
Tube |
Weight (g)![]() ![]() |
59 g |
Belay Brake Assist![]() ![]() |
No |
Rope Options | 1 or 2 ropes |
Guide Mode![]() ![]() |
Up to 2 followers |
Teeth![]() ![]() |
Yes |
Rope Range (mm)![]() ![]() | 7.5 mm
- 11.0 mm
single: 8.9 - 11.0 half: 8.0 - 11.0 twin: 7.5 - 11.0 |
Certification![]() ![]() |
UIAA |

One small feature that led me to choose the Reverso over the ATC Guide is the orientation of the guide mode loop. The loop is oriented horizontally in relation to the device (perpendicular to the tubes), meaning that when it’s clipped into an anchor, the tubes are naturally oriented in the direction of pull. This is not the cause on the Guide, which has a loop oriented vertically.

For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. However, when we actually compared the two side-by-side with the same ropes in a controlled environment (especially in auto-block mode) the ATC Guide came out on top. The difference is small though, so if you've already got a Reverso and like it, don't feel any pressure to switch.

The Reverso 4 is a great tool for top rope belaying and for belaying a leader as well. This winter I caught a couple of falls with it. The skinny ropes were iced up, and it worked admirably. I’m not sure how well a device with larger rope slots like the BD ATC Guide would have worked in this particular situation. Since we all seem to be climbing with skinnier ropes these days, I like the idea of smaller rope slots, and Petzl’s patented Progressive Rope Control.
Overall, I’m impressed with the light weight, and ease of use. Lowering in the plaquette function is pretty easy with a carabiner in the release hole. I’m so sold on it, I can’t imagine ever going back to a different device. Petzl doesn’t redesign things often, but when they do, they do it with intention.
This video shows all the features of Reverso 4 belay device, with comparisons to old Reverso.
A well discussed review of Reverso 4.
This video is really long but informative, it shows all the instruction for using Reverso belay device in details.
Warning: This video is dubbed in English. If you're getting antsy, skip to section 7:40-8:15 for one of the most interesting parts, where they show a hardware specific camera inspection.
How to use the REVERSO 4 (good and bad), various instruction of REVERSO 4 including inspection and techniques.
Description of procedure, how to inspect REVERSO 4.