One of the best beginner devices
by nvorel on 04/2/2020Pros
Teeth
Very Light
Cons
No guide mode
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
ATC XP
Description
Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter.
High-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode
Machined windows through device for weight savings
Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes
Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter.
High-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than regular friction mode
Machined windows through device for weight savings
Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between...
Retail price
US$ 24.95
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Device Type |
Tube |
| Weight (g) |
64 g |
| Belay Brake Assist |
No |
| Rope Options | 1 or 2 ropes |
| Guide Mode |
No guide mode |
| Teeth |
Yes |
| Rope Range (mm) | 7.7 mm - 11.0 mm |
| Certification |
UIAA |
Good !
by maxime on 03/29/2020Pros
durable
added friction
Cons
no guide mode
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
The classic
by david.gabor142 on 03/23/2020Pros
Reliable
Small and light
Multifunctional
Cons
Cannot belay directly off anchor
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Good
by par0043 on 03/27/2017Pros
Light and the teeth give it extra grab power when I am belaying someone bigger then me.
Cons
Not that good for abseiling as it does not have a lot of mass.
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch
Just about every climber who climbs outside eventually needs to own a tube style device, either for rappelling or cleaning. Which one climbers own is driven by things like ease of use, cheapness and availability. For that there is little reason to step past the brand that every climber knows, Black Diamond. Their hold on the North American climbing market can be at least partially drawn to the ATC line, and as it has moved past household name to the likes of the Kleenex of belay devices, we’re guessing that it will be on this list in some form for a long time to come.
The ATC XP is our favorite basic tube belay device. It's light and durable and the two friction modes it has increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations. We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. There are cheaper devices available but we believe the $21.95 MSRP is justified. It's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the "Where's the best price?" links at the top of this page to find a good deal.
Summary: Looking for a cush ride and a smooth catch? The ATC XP is our device of choice — its deep, curved jaws caught falls with aplomb and provided excellent variable friction for free-hanging rappels, all without causing hang-ups when we were feeding out rope for frantic clips. While you can use this device in its low-friction mode, we didn’t have much need for it — the high-friction mode sufficed for all situations. The XP’s thick walls and gently curved rope-bearing radius also made it one of the most rope-friendly devices in the test.
Pros: Very versatile.
Cons: None.
“If you’re anything like me, then you take more gear then needed,” our belay device tester said one day. “I mean, who doesn’t want Buddha’s own rack of double cams, draws, and slings?” With that approach, odds are you’re going to have the right piece, but you might as well carry a boat anchor, too. That is where tools like the newly redesigned Black Diamond ATC-XP come in handy. With cut-outs in the side walls and subtle changes to the shape, the new ATCXP is 30 percent lighter (now 2.3 oz.) than the original, shaving weight while not compromising safety. It also doesn’t heat up as fast, and thus will remain relatively touchable after 200- foot raps. Our tester felt it also handled thick ropes (up to 11mm) better than the old version, while still performing flawlessly with a dental floss 8.9mm and even skinnier half ropes.
ATC XP
ATC, ATC XP and ATC Pilot
ATC XP Belay Device
ATC Belay Devices
Introducing Black Diamond ATC belay devices.
How to Choose your First Belay Device
How to use ATC, ATC XP, ATC Sport belay devices, warnings, inspection, care and maintenence with instructional pictures. The diagrams with English instructions are in page one.
How to use ATC, ATC XP, ATC Sport belay devices, warnings, inspection, care and maintenence with instructional pictures. The page one contains diagrams with English instructions.