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Username

par0043

Reviews

Half Dome 2018

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Half Dome
4.02

Solid as a rock

Pros
Durable
Lightish
Bright colours
Large adjustment range
Removable padding is easy to clean
Cons
Can't adjust where the v for the chin strap is...
Size adjuster eats hair
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

Great durable every day helmet. Have abused it to death with both groups and personal use and it is still holding strong. Lighter and better fit then edelrid ultralight. Super durable and colours make it easy to distinguish instructors from students. Also easy to clean and air with removable padding making it more hygienic in group use settings.

 

4.02

Extendermate

Pros
Light
Durable and strong
Bright colours
Soft to handle
Racks well
Functional thickness
Cons
Shows dirt more then other colours
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Good general purpose sling. I have used it for everything from an anchor to a pick off strap and everything In between. Rack well in sling, chain or alpine draw style. Soft to handle and use but still durable.

5.04

Life strand

Pros
Light
Strong and durable
Racks well
Soft and easy to handle
Good length
Ideal thickness
Cons
None that I could find
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Good general purpose sling. I have used it for everything from an anchor to a hasty harness and everything In between. Rack well in sling, chain or twirl style. Soft to handle and use but still durable.

Momentum

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Momentum Front View
4.02

It saved my life

Pros
Light
Comfy
Big gear loops
Padded legs
Adjustable
Coloured belay loop stands out
Cons
Not cented on big people
No small gear loop for chalk bag
Leg adjustments af kinda dicky
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

Good beginer harness with plenty of gear space. Leg loops don't adjust tight on small people and there is no gear loop right at the back for your chalk bag. Comfortable to hang in and belay off. May not be centred on big people as it is only adjustable on one side.

 

Rocklock Screwgate

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate
5.04

Locks rock

Pros
Big
Wide gate opening
Easy lock
Good for figure 8 and ATC
Cons
Little bit heavy
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Good biner with large gate opening and wide spine, screw lock is smooth and doesn't jam even when tightly shut. Good for ATC or figure 8 belays, keylock nose prevents snags.

Super 8

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Super 8
2.04

Fast

Pros
Light
Simple to rig
Easy to rappel with
Cons
Very thin
Not a lot of heat dissipation
Kinda expensive
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Good device for people who like to rappel with a figure 8 and not an ATC, pretty light and easy to control. Not great for fast long abseiling or in a group setting where it will get heavy use but alright in a climbing setting as you can belay in multiple configurations and rappel with twin or half ropes.

ATC XP

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC-XP
5.04

Good

Pros
Light and the teeth give it extra grab power when I am belaying someone bigger then me.
Cons
Not that good for abseiling as it does not have a lot of mass.
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

I would recommend this for someone who does not need an extravagant belay device and is not planning to climb multi pitch any time soon. Best suited as a beginner device beat for someone with a partner bigger then them.