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Petzl Freino Full View
  • Petzl Freino Full View
  • Petzl Freino Full View

Freino

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.2 avg )

Description

For those times when you need a little extra friction while descending, the FREINO is the way to go.

-Provides increased friction for single ropes when rappelling or lowering, without extra gear or the need to open the carabiner
-Easy to use: rope can be quickly redirected over the friction spur and removed with one hand
-Auto-locking
-Keylock system
-For use on single ropes with the STOP, GRIGRI, HUIT, HUIT ANTIBRULURE and SIMPLE

Retail price

US$ 49.95

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Weight (g) 85 g
Shape D / Offset D
Locking Auto - 3 action
Straight or Bent Straight
Full Size Yes
Keylock Yes
Solid or Wire Solid
Gate Opening 15 mm
Number of Colors 1
Lock Indicator No
Strengths (kN)   25 kN   9 kN    10 kN
AVG RATING
6
( 6 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

The belay ‘biner for every Grigri

Pros
Very low chance of cross loading
Added friction for lowering
Simple, one-handed operation
Cons
Can seem confusing to first time users
Can pinch smaller-hand users
Heavier, more bulky than some other locking carabiners
More expensive than many other locking carabiners
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4/5

The Petzl Frieno is a very unique belay locker that includes a friction spur that enables one to loop the brake end of the rope over it for increased braking control. It must be used with a gri-gri on a single rope to be effective, and costs a lot of money for a single locking carabiner. For these reasons, it is not our preferred, or recommended, choice for a belay-specific locker.

GearFlogger Logo

OK, alpha-gear-geeks, your carabiner has arrived. Designed to be used with the Petzl Grigri (but just as effective with any belay device), the Freino belay carabiner is a 3 ounce autolocking unit that has a secondary gate and basket - yes, you may call it a spur to establish techno-superiority - that provides additional braking.

Rock and Ice Gear Review rating 5/5

TWO GATES for the price of one! Finally, I don’t feel ripped off ... nor do I feel insecure lowering a climber much heavier than I am, or myself on a single line. The Petzl Freino, a three-ounce auto-locking belay biner that really works best with a Grigri, is outfitted with an “integral braking spur” on its spine. Belay as usual with a Grigri clipped to the main biner. When it’s time to lower, clip the brake side of the rope through the wire gate. This redirects the brake end of the rope, adding friction that gives you greater control over lowering speed. This feature comes in handy with thin or new ropes that are slick on the feed. Other non-Grigri devices such as the ATC also benefit from the additional friction.

Freino Carabiner Review
Watch a tour of Petzl's facilities as they explain all the testing involved

Warning: This video is dubbed in English. If you're getting antsy, skip to section 7:40-8:15 for one of the most interesting parts, where they show a hardware specific camera inspection.

The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.

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