The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Alien Revolution 1/2
Description
When Dave Waggoner introduced his Alien cams to climbing, the art of technical placements changed. Alien cams are the best thin crack protection. The Alien hybrid units excel in pin scars and technical placements. Dave's design has been and will be copied in the future but so far this original concept stands alone.
Retail price
US$ 74.95
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Weight (g / oz) Weight (g / oz)In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. | 52.0 g / 1.80 oz |
| Cam Head | 4 lobes, single axle |
| Offset | No offset |
| Stem | Flexible single stem |
| Sling | Dyneema (single sling loop) |
| Camming Angle | |
| Active Strength | 7 kN |
Cam Range (mm / in)Cam Range (mm / in)In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short. For offset cams, we'll list the max dimensions possible and then afterwards list each of lobe dimensions. | 13.0 - 22.0 mm (0.53 - 0.86 in) |
| Materials | Wire Material: 5/32" 7x19 Stainless |
| Certification | CE, UIAA |
No reviews yet.
The Fixe Alien Revolution cams are a lightweight cam with a super flexible stem and narrow profile that make them ideal for small, shallow placements as well as horizontal placements. A contoured trigger bar and spacious thumb loop make them easy to place. Available with a single or extendable sling provides a lot of options for buyers along with offset or hybrid versions that excel in flared placements such as pin scars. With six sizes available they are limited in their versatility beyond small cracks.
The trigger action on the Alien Revo is smooth and easy, one could even say otherworldly... When you are pumped or need to fire in a quick placement this cam shines. This newer generation of the Alien features all aluminum trigger components, tremendously increasing the durability over the last model. I used these cams on more than 20 big routes throughout the Sierra Nevada Range (mostly in Mikwok, Mono/Monache territory) this season, and they still look almost new. If you do find yourself in a situation where you need to replace your trigger wires, you can find them for $16.65 on the Fixe Hardware site, as well as a video to offer guidance when rewiring them.
In the past, Aliens have been hard to get. A shipment would show up in the Yosemite Mountain shop and they'd be sold out in a couple days. They were also subject to manufacturing inconsistencies and recalls. Thanks to Fixe, we now have unfettered access to the sweetest little finger sized cams out there, plus narrower heads and less weight than the originals. These are the lightest of the narrow-headed cams in our review, and our testers found them very easy to place. Our lead tester never climbs without a red alien.
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A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).