The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Camalot Z4 Offset .1-.2
Description
The new standard when it comes to offset single-stem cams, the Camalot Z4 offsets feature our game-changing RigidFlex stem design, which as the name implies, stays rigid while placing them, yet flexes when you climb past, ensuring easy handling and less walking for a solid placement you can rely on.These offset lobe design ensures that you always have the right piece for pin scars and non-uniform placements.
Features
- RigidFlex stem stays rigid in-hand for easy placement, but flexes once placed to reduce walking
- Dual twisted cable construction on larger sizes provides uniform flex; single cable construction on smaller sizes avoids buckling and reduces trigger profile
- Narrow head width for tight placements
- Sandblasted lobes provide holding power
- Lightweight yet durable Dynex™ sling with a unique color scheme for easy identification from other Camalots
Retail price
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Weight (g / oz)Weight (g / oz)In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. | 45.0 g / 1.58 oz |
Cam Head | 4 lobes, single axle |
Offset | Yes offset |
Stem | Flexible single stem |
Sling | Dyneema (single sling loop) |
Camming Angle | |
Active Strength | 5 kN |
Cam Range (mm / in)Cam Range (mm / in)In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short. For offset cams, we'll list the max dimensions possible and then afterwards list each of lobe dimensions. | 10.4 -
16.3 mm
(0.41 -
0.64 in)
Offset range 8.8 - 13.8 mm / 10.4 - 16.3 mm (0.34 - 0.54 in / 0.40 - 0.64 in) |
Materials | |
Certification | |
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With grippy, sandblasted lobes and a narrow head width, the four-lobed Z4s sunk reliably deep in thin fissures and pin scars. But their most epic feature was the new RigidFlex tech, an accordion sheathe that stiffens the stem when retracted to let you bury the unit, but then softens up once placed to reduce walking. Our tester dug the Z4 Offsets for irregular cracks, saying, “I whipped repeatedly on the .3/.4. It took a beating, but showed little wear and was easy to clean. Highly recommend the Offset Z4s for aid and alpine adventures with flaring granite cracks.”
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).