The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Camalot C4 .3
Description
The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam just got better. The new, redesigned Camalot C4 has now upped the ante, considering it’s 10% lighter yet just as durable as before. Plus, it features a modern design that improves on the old tried-and-true Camalots. The cam’s lobes are lighter and more sculpted, optimized for strength to weight, while the slings have a visual update for easier differentiation when racking. And speaking of racking, we’re introducing a new innovative trigger keeper on sizes #4, #5, and #6, that keeps the big guys contracted for compact racking and immediately release when you’re ready to place. We’ve also widened the trigger as well for better handling.
- Lighter sculpted lopes optimized for strength to weight
- Slings are updated visually for easier differentiation when racking
- Double-axle design offers the widest range for each cam unit
- C-Loop continuous cable stem design is strong and durable
- Color-coded for easy identification and a wide range of sizes
- Neutrino Rackpack available for easy racking (see Carabiners)
Retail price
US$ 84.95
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Weight (g / oz) Weight (g / oz)In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. | 70.0 g / 2.46 oz |
| Cam Head | 4 lobes, double axle |
| Offset | No offset |
| Stem | Flexible single stem |
| Sling | Nylon / Polyamide (single sling loop) |
| Camming Angle | |
| Active Strength | 8 kN |
Cam Range (mm / in)Cam Range (mm / in)In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short. For offset cams, we'll list the max dimensions possible and then afterwards list each of lobe dimensions. | 13.8 - 23.4 mm (0.54 - 0.92 in) |
| Materials | |
| Certification | CE, UIAA |
No reviews yet.
I am an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor in western North Carolina, so I want only the best for my clients. The BD C4s are equipped with a solid cable loop that makes them a long-lasting, dependable piece of gear. I never want to be doubting the gear that I put my clients on every day, so I use BD C4s largely due to the fact that these cams have been widely trusted for generations and continue to prove their dependability. As long as you take care of your cams and keep them clean (which is recommended no matter what kind of cams you have), these C4 Camelots will last you many seasons of sending!
If you have used the previous generation of C4s you will be able to pick up a rack of the new generation and jump right on your proj. You don’t feel any negative difference and should be solid placing cams with confidence they will do their job.
All in all the Camalot is a great cam that expert climbers have been using for years. I like mine and I trust them with my life after all. I would say there are more updated cams out there that have some nice features as well but overall these are a dependable choice.
Black Diamond have taken the old C4s and improved the overall unit again. This time the most noticeable steps forward have been in weight saving, and the addition of the very innovative trigger keeper on the larger units. The solid feel and build quality has been maintained, so long term users of the C4s will probably like this new version too. Aside from the small but significant upgrades, the C4 is recognisably still a Camalot... well if it ain't broke, don't fix it! The new C4s range from size 0.3 to size 6 and cost anywhere between £65 to £110, which is pretty standard pricing these days for good quality cams.
I’ve tested these new Camalots on hard sandstone—like that of Eldorado Canyon— and some Colorado granite of less-than-Yosemite quality, and they bite just as reliably as my old C4s. The action is also smoother, and the four fully-colored cam lobes (versus only two colored ones on the older versions) help you more readily visually ID the sizes.
Last summer, I had the chance to preview the updated BD C4 Camalots. As I’ve continued using them on all types of rock, I’ve come more and more to appreciate just what great cams they are—streamlined, quick to place, reliable, and notably stable, with minimal walking thanks to the classic double-axle design. The C4s are now 10 percent lighter (thanks to more cutaways in the cam lobes), the triggers are wider for easier pull, the larger cams have stiffer stems and the smaller cams have softer stems, and the cam lobes and slings are brighter and color matched for quick ID. Most notably, Nos. 4–6 have handy Trigger Keeper wires that let you keep the lobes down when the cam isn’t in use—either in your pack or racked on your harness. Then, simply retract the trigger and, boom, the cam opens and is ready to place.
The cams are easier to spot on the harness, as Black Diamond colored both lobes to match the size of the cam, instead of only two out of four on the old ones. Experienced climbers who have plugged gear for years may not notice this. But beginner climbers desperate to spot that No. 1 before they lose grip will dig it.
The Black Diamond C4 is an Iconic piece of equipment that has revolutionized the way we climb. We use BD sizing to describe crack sizes instead of inches. They are completely deserving of their veneration and popularity. The recent update only makes them better with the 10% weight reduction and the trigger keepers.
Black Diamond C4 Cam Updates
Redesigned Camalot C4
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).