Functional ascender, semi-functional descenderby anonymous on 10/13/2022
I've used both these for awhile now, picked up a pair used for $70. As ascenders they work fine. Although they are quite heavy, the beefiness does make them slightly more comfortable to grab. Cam mechanism is pretty smooth but you have to get the motion dialed in.
As a descender, it is a pretty poor choice. The extra height from the top of the ascender makes it difficult to weight test at the anchor. It can also only perform single strand raps. Why one would choose to use this device to descend a single strand over the variety of other options is beyond me. A cool idea from Grivel that probably should have stayed in the development room. My major complaint, however, has to do with the top hole of the ascender. This hole accepts a carabiner to prevent the jumar from coming off the rope should the cam disengage. The closer of the two top holes (in relation to the top holes) is shaped such that any carabiner (at least, every one Ive tried with it) doesn't have full range of motion. This makes clipping and unclipping it extremely finnicky, and impossible with some carabiners. The dmm phantom works best of what I've tried. The back hole is shaped better, but the rope can slip out when a carabiner is through the back hole. This flaw to me is a dealbreaker for recommending them to anyone. I'll probably keep using mine since I have them.