A pictoral representation of UIAA-101 and EN-892 standards for ropes.
8.9mm Monster 70m Dry
• One of the lightest single ropes in the world
at only 52 grams per meter
• Complete Shield dry treatment with nano
technology uses TEFLON®
Eco to completely impregnate the sheath
and core forming a protective layer against
abrasion and moisture
• Can be used as a single, twin or half rope
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|Weight|| 52.0 g/m|
8.024 lbs / 3640 g
|Diameter (millimeters)||8.9 mm|
|Length (meters)||70 m|
|UIAA Falls (Single / Half / Twin)||5 / - / -|
|Dynamic Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||33.0 % / - / -|
|Static Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||6.9 % / - / -|
|Impact Force (Single / Half / Twin)||8.70 kN / - / -|
|Sheath Proportion (%)|||
|Sheath Slippage (mm)||0 mm|
|Type of Middle Mark||None|
|Rope End Marker||None|
This video shows all the features of 8.9mm Monster rope and athletes climbing with 8.9mm Monster.
The Metolius Monster 8.9 has a really great hand. Not too stiff, not too floppy. This, combined with the slick sheath, makes for a really easy clip when you’re pumped. The sheath is tightly braided to help with durability. One of the really great new features that comes on this rope is the middle mark defined by short orange threads that stick out a few millimeters. This makes it possible to both see and feel the middle mark, adding to the safety of the rope. The only issue is if you have to cut the end off the rope, you now have a very permanent incorrect middle mark. The Monster 8.9 is rated for use as a single, twin, or half tope. This makes it really easy to take a pair of Monster 8.9 ropes on a multi-pitch route and use it as a single where it makes sense, and as a half rope where it makes sense. It’s always nice to have a set of two when faced with a long series of rappels.
Even with its light weight, so far the Metolius Monster 8.9’s durability seems totally adequate. This, combined with its well-designed middle mark, makes it an attractive option for both long, multi-pitch climbs and redpoint attempts. I need to log more time with the rope to see how it will hold up in the long term, but so far I am very impressed with the Monster 8.9 and expect it to continue to perform well.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.